Jump to content
SAU Community

Stretched Tyres For An R33 Gtst

33VOM
 Share

Recommended Posts

33VOM Proficient

33VOM

Posted
Posted

Hey guys ive been searchin the forum for this but with no luck so i will just ask instead (excuse for the noobiness)

I currently have. Volk gtc's Front:235/40/r17 rear:255/40/r17 which are 8's front 9's rear , i have the rear gaurds rolled and i want to know what size tyres do i need (or to get) to have stretched tyres

I also have 25mm neotech spacers that i recently installed into my rear wheels which i found was rubbing, what camber adjustment would i need and ride height to be able to fit it in ( the car is sitting 145mm off the ground from the middle)

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387308-stretched-tyres-for-an-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

List the offset so we can tell you?

I run 235's front and 265's rear with only rolled guards. My old 19's were the same and were fine without even touching the guards. You need to list the offset as well as the spacers to work out where the wheels will sit with the tyres. Sounds like you bought GTR offset and are spacing them to a gtst?

33VOM Proficient

33VOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

List the offset so we can tell you?

I run 235's front and 265's rear with only rolled guards. My old 19's were the same and were fine without even touching the guards. You need to list the offset as well as the spacers to work out where the wheels will sit with the tyres. Sounds like you bought GTR offset and are spacing them to a gtst?

Im not sure about the offset because i bought the car with the wheels on it already so im not quite sure what he was trying to achieve but from the lools of it the fronts are +35 rears +39 but as i said im not quite sure ,

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Im not sure about the offset because i bought the car with the wheels on it already so im not quite sure what he was trying to achieve but from the lools of it the fronts are +35 rears +39 but as i said im not quite sure ,

offsets are usually stamped on the wheel somewhere, usually on the inside of the spokes

think my old wheels were 9.5" wide +38 offset with 265's (very small stretch) fronts were 8.5" wide + 35 with 235's (again think they are very slightly stretched.

I have 9" wide + 36 with 265's on the rear now and they scrubbed a fair bit and I had to roll the guards. Just to let you know what my experiences were

Might have to double check the offsets but I think thats about right

ichi-go Rising Star

ichi-go

Posted
Posted

You dont need offset to determine 'stretch'

with 8 and 9, it's hard to have any sort of stretch unless you go like 205 for front and 215 for rear which is abit stupid

Sell the rims and get 9 and 10, or 9.5 and 10.5, then get into the stretch game

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

You dont need offset to determine 'stretch'

with 8 and 9, it's hard to have any sort of stretch unless you go like 205 for front and 215 for rear which is abit stupid

Sell the rims and get 9 and 10, or 9.5 and 10.5, then get into the stretch game

yeah but he wants to know if its going to rub etc. so offsets matter for that. I know offset doesnt effect stretch

33VOM Proficient

33VOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

offsets are usually stamped on the wheel somewhere, usually on the inside of the spokes

think my old wheels were 9.5" wide +38 offset with 265's (very small stretch) fronts were 8.5" wide + 35 with 235's (again think they are very slightly stretched.

I have 9" wide + 36 with 265's on the rear now and they scrubbed a fair bit and I had to roll the guards. Just to let you know what my experiences were

Might have to double check the offsets but I think thats about right

Thanks mate i will just double check the wheels when i get back home, i might just do that and get 265's when my 255's run out , just got these new neotech spacers which i wanna be able to use in either the fronts or rears, also i dont have any camber on the wheels so their straight as,

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit?

Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

33VOM Proficient

33VOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit?

Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

Hey duncan

Yeh it was just to get a "Sik" look but it sounds like the cons are more than the pros

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one ;)

Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one ;)

Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

Or in my case its done for maximum clearance so can run more lock lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...