Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can't legally remove back seats and trims.

If it is to put in half cage (I.e.Brown Davis cams approved), it is legal but you have to get vicroads to change it to 2 seater.

you will need to register it as a 2 seater if you remove the seats. I believe its as easy as going to Vicroads to get it changed from 5 to 2.

However changing back from 2 to 5 is a bit harder as you need to get the seatbelts rechecked or something.

Hope that helps?

you will need to register it as a 2 seater if you remove the seats. I believe its as easy as going to Vicroads to get it changed from 5 to 2.

However changing back from 2 to 5 is a bit harder as you need to get the seatbelts rechecked or something.

Hope that helps?

yeah that dose cheers,do you know do they need to inspect the car or is it more paper work stuff?

My experience with it is I could remove back seats though seat-belts and buckles must also be removed.

Had to be taken to VICroads for inspection that is all. I had sound deadener and rear trims removed. Said nothing.

VICROADS REGULATIONS

An Approval Certificate is not required if:

  • the number of original seating positions was less than 10

Nowhere does it say you have to remove belts or anything, but I would assume you would be doing this anyway.

Does not say it on VICroads website. I did it anyway and when I took car in he said they had to be removed. That was probably just his opinion as it doesn't say you have to so I gather you shouldn't have to as Aaron has said.

I just removed the seats and didn't do a thing. Not one cop has every said anything about it. The seats that is, they always bring up the fact its stripped.

Of course I never let passengers sit in the back.

Edited by Peter89

I drove around with a boot installation in replace of the back seats for a few years, and every time I got pulled over never had a problem.

Once a cop asked about the two seater status, and I had that Vic Roads rule ready and saved on my phone and he was fine once he saw that.

I even called Vic Roads to register it as a two seater once and the guy on the phone asked why I would bother and it doesn't matter or effect anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...