Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking to get some adjustable arms for the R, prob just camber but may considering other things like caster as well etc

last time i had an alignment done, they said it was around -2.5 all around, which they said is about where they would want it anyway but i'm thinking of reducing that a bit for street duties and to save the tyres a bit, then change for track days (don't do many, so alignment costs are too bad)

i think the car has some R33 GTR sus parts, LCA from memory, but can't remember exactly. Need to check the specs list again :D

Cusco arms :)

Racepace modify them if you wanna get more serious with adjustments

Or you can have the factory ones modified as well but not as much freedom as Cusco ones.

Depends how much/what you want i guess.

  • 6 months later...

ok. bringing this back to make a decision on which arms to get. Once i've sussed this out, i think i might get some bolton spacers to get the stance bang on - 10.5 +15 just don't cut it on a 34 R

and do i only need to do 'upper' arms front and rear? i wouldn't want to be changing camber from a lower arm? (if you can even do that...)

Ok, so options seem to be...

Driftworks:

Front (~$250)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/r33-and-r34-nissan-skyline-front-upper-camber-arms.html

Rear (~$170)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-camber-arms-s14-s15-r33.html

not really feeling the orange :D but i've heard good things over at gtr.co.uk as well - they do a full R34 GTR kit as well for $700 odd.

Hardrace:

For some reason, i don't think they do front arms?? can't seem to find any for a 34

Rear ($175) - http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_32&product_id=217

SRI (found these when looking through the Just Jap site)

Front ($220) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17665&cat=396&page=2

Rear ($149) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16598&cat=396&page=3

Ikeya Formula:

Front (~438) - http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link

Rear (~$390) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-rear-camber-adjuster-upper-arm-set-nissan-26495

why does the Nengun rear upper arm pic look different? http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/rear-upper-arms

Kazama AUTO:

Rear (~420) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/kazama-auto-rear-upper-arm-nissan-58403

Can't find link for front

Cusco:

Front ($314) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-front-upper-arms

Rear ($376) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-rear-upper-arms

So as per normal, the Jap stuff is a lot more $$. I take it i want to be getting pillow ball arms?

Should i just grab something local (Hardrace etc) or fork out for the Jap stuff? Is there actually any difference between the Jap parts and the cheaper "aussie" stuff?

As usual, my 2c is that pillowball arms are defectable. The few arms that are available with rubber bushes won't maintain geometry as well, but will be better than original bushes (they're harder rubber). Just depends on what's important to you. I'd prefer not to have a big issue if there was a crash/accident and the insurance co got pissy. Suspension arms are the sort of thing that is easy to point a finger at and blame.

ahhh... interesting... this i did not know....

i'm not particularly fussed about legalities and i don't do many km's, so hopefully wear and tear won't be so much of an issue. Why exactly are they supposedly more dangerous than rubber bushes?

there a difference between rose-jointed and pillowball? looks like i've got a bit of both going on...

BCNR33 Front Lower Control Arms

MIDORI Development Pillow ball tension rods (castor rods – rose jointed)

NISMO reinforced Upper link/Upper Control Arm Bushes

MIDORI development Rear Pillow Ball Upper Links bush replacement (rose

joint bushes in upper control arms)

MIDORI Lower Arm Pillow ball bush replacement

MIDORI rear sub-frame collars

NISMO upgraded rear sub-frame bushes

ok. bringing this back to make a decision on which arms to get. Once i've sussed this out, i think i might get some bolton spacers to get the stance bang on - 10.5 +15 just don't cut it on a 34 R

and do i only need to do 'upper' arms front and rear? i wouldn't want to be changing camber from a lower arm? (if you can even do that...)

Ok, so options seem to be...

Driftworks:

Front (~$250)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/r33-and-r34-nissan-skyline-front-upper-camber-arms.html

Rear (~$170)- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-camber-arms-s14-s15-r33.html

not really feeling the orange :D but i've heard good things over at gtr.co.uk as well - they do a full R34 GTR kit as well for $700 odd.

Hardrace:

For some reason, i don't think they do front arms?? can't seem to find any for a 34

Rear ($175) - http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_32&product_id=217

SRI (found these when looking through the Just Jap site)

Front ($220) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17665&cat=396&page=2

Rear ($149) - http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16598&cat=396&page=3

Ikeya Formula:

Front (~438) - http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link

Rear (~$390) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-rear-camber-adjuster-upper-arm-set-nissan-26495

why does the Nengun rear upper arm pic look different? http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/rear-upper-arms

Kazama AUTO:

Rear (~420) - http://www.rhdjapan.com/kazama-auto-rear-upper-arm-nissan-58403

Can't find link for front

Cusco:

Front ($314) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-front-upper-arms

Rear ($376) - http://www.nengun.com/cusco/adjustable-rear-upper-arms

So as per normal, the Jap stuff is a lot more $$. I take it i want to be getting pillow ball arms?

Should i just grab something local (Hardrace etc) or fork out for the Jap stuff? Is there actually any difference between the Jap parts and the cheaper "aussie" stuff?

I have the complete driftworks arm set in my drift car snd im happy with the items been in for about 18months now.

Slso yes you only need the upper arms, the adj lca are for adding more track which can also be used if you dont want to use spacers.

I put the cusco ones on the front of my 34, I brought them cause they are blue like the car, no I'm not kidding :P

easy to fit and appear to be good quality and with a small mod they have heaps of preset adjustments

only thing I think is they are not so good if you want to adjust the castor though as the are a fixed 1 piece arm with a bolt holding it to hub assembly not a ball joint

i am leaning in the Cusco direction. 1) seem to be the cheapest of the Jap stuff and... 2) like you said, there seems to be a modification option with them that Ash mentioned as well, and given that my mechanical work is done by Racepace, i've got someone who's done it before...

considering all the other suspension work done on the car... i wonder why Midori didn't put in adjustable upper arms for camber changes? it's almost if they did it all, found camber to be 'x' and said, yep, that's fine, no need for adjustments. But -2.5 all around is a bit much for a predominantly street driven car i would have thought...

Yeah Racepace mod the Cusco ones for the circuit cars, but then depends if it's "really" needed. I did ok with stock modified ones as it wasn't too aggressive and even then still managed to wear tyres (should've rotated more often).

Comes back to what you are doing with the car mate. If you are going to live on the circuit then yeah go Cusco ones and get them modded etc. If not I'd honestly recommend to save the cash and stick with modified stock ones based on my experiences.

I'm sure extra geometry would've helped when on the track, but really another 1-2 years of experience would've offered much more benefit hence i stuck with stocker/mod :)

in terms of changing camber settings though, Racepace stock-mod vs Cusco - isn't it easier to change the Cusco? (not knowing exactly what is involved in the Racepace mod)

not to mention they flog out rather quickly

Meh. ALL my Ikeya arms are pillow balls and some have been in there for almost 4 years. They're fine.

People make out like they flog out in 100 km's. As for noise.... Can't hear nothing!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...