Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In-car video showing the 34 boosting hard on full boost or its not true? Nah man but Im sure we would all love to see

When I get the boost controller sorted and I can

Find an appropriate "private road" or track :yes:

At the moment I haven't kept the throttle down long enough to enjoy, once it starts getting loose in 3rd I back off... Need better rubber for sure

ku36 tyres arent that bad, what width are they on the rear?

265.... Either KU36, RS-Rs or Achillies 123s.... Just cheapies as they won't last long anyway :D

don't waste your $$$ on KU36

they are pretty decent for what they are but kuhmo have increased their price in the last 12 months and you can get Nittio NT05's or Federal RSR for less.

imho for a street car go with the Nitto's or if you can stretch the wallet grab some advan AD08's

I usually run the NT05's all round and with my suspension setup they give me effortless traction in 2nd right up to about 310rwkw (e85 on 16psi) - beyond that i need to think about what i'm doing

don't waste your $$$ on KU36

they are pretty decent for what they are but kuhmo have increased their price in the last 12 months and you can get Nittio NT05's or Federal RSR for less.

imho for a street car go with the Nitto's or if you can stretch the wallet grab some advan AD08's

I usually run the NT05's all round and with my suspension setup they give me effortless traction in 2nd right up to about 310rwkw (e85 on 16psi) - beyond that i need to think about what i'm doing

+1 for AD08's, great tyre. Once they get the heat into them they are awesome

I'm using 265/35R18 RS-R's on the back and they only just manage to grip 2nd with 280rwkw and a toight like a toiga diff (shimmed).

Have you tried them out at Barbs dude? I found my KU36's are ok on the street, but they really come alive when you get some heat into them on the track.

Thanks mate... Will hopefully get it sorted before Texi...

360kw was the highest run... It was run @ 357kw on the final tune for safety... The reason for the different power figures is the 3 boost levels and also the % of ethanol.... My power ranges from 311kw to 357kw depending in boost and E content :)

Hope that makes sense?

Do you have a dyno sheet, or did I miss it ?

don't waste your $$$ on KU36

they are pretty decent for what they are but kuhmo have increased their price in the last 12 months and you can get Nittio NT05's or Federal RSR for less.

imho for a street car go with the Nitto's or if you can stretch the wallet grab some advan AD08's

I usually run the NT05's all round and with my suspension setup they give me effortless traction in 2nd right up to about 310rwkw (e85 on 16psi) - beyond that i need to think about what i'm doing

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

Edited by Rolls

Do you have a dyno sheet, or did I miss it ?

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

What type of driving would that be, around a track ?

would they last longer with normal street driving and occasional short blasts?

What type of driving would that be, around a track ?

would they last longer with normal street driving and occasional short blasts?

I drove it hard at the track and spun out on a couple of occasions, so I have no doubt that took off a fair chunk of life. But I only got in 10, maybe 12 laps. On the street I drive pretty sedately with the odd 1st, 2nd, 3rd bursts. So they don't last very long, but no doubt without the track abuse they would last longer.

I think you'll find that if you don't destroy the compound on the tyres by tracking them hard, doing skids, etc. etc. then they would last a fair bit longer. But I'd be surprised if you got more than 15-20k km's out of them.

I have KU 36 on the front, but they sat for 2 years so maybe hard now? They gripped real well compared to other tyres.... Was happy with them. I have some shit sumitomo or something on the rear hence why I have no grip....

Rolls - sorry mate, I have 4 dyno sheets, just haven't had time to scan them.... I have 98 sheet, gate pressure E85 vs 98, low boost E85 vs 98 and then just high boost on E85.... Will get them

In here and in the RB 25 thread soon.... Sorry over been slack :)

When I get the boost controller sorted and I can

Find an appropriate "private road" or track :yes:

At the moment I haven't kept the throttle down long enough to enjoy, once it starts getting loose in 3rd I back off... Need better rubber for sure

Oh dont be soft mate thats when it just starts getting fun when ya doing 130km/h in 3rd and the rears start breaking loose :nyaanyaa: (even though they are only nankangs) lol Looking forward to checking your setup out at texi next weekend dude sounds like a sweet setup :banana: Hoping my big brakes are gunna be on my car by then too and possibly some semis lol

Haha come say g'day and have a look :) plumb back and low boost will be like light beer through a straw.... But, what can you do :(

For sure dude I might have to wind down the boost too im a track/witches hat amatuer so see how i go lol :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...