Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does running nitrogen make much difference?? Bit off topic now but this intrigued me.

I think so, but it could be a placebo effect. They just tend to feel better IMO and nitrogen dosent expand anywhere near what air does so pressures stay pretty consistent on a track day.

Omg Dave you can be fussy, i've seen it before and it looks fine..lol

Either way that's a reasonable price..Will put on top of my want list :thumbsup:

Nah not fussy, just a mild case of OCD.........I mean attention to detail lol

I imagine that would only be possible if boost was being controlled by the Haltech? With boost being controlled separately by the HKS EVC, it's not going to do it automatically.

This^^^

Sell the hks evc and get a simple mac valve. Setup the boost control over ethanol percentage so can leave it on high boost and the haltech will lower the boost accordingly.

Same for low boost.

Will also stop ur boost dropping off.

One of the only boost controllers i dislike is the hkc evc's.

The KU36's have a treadwear of 180, the RSR's are 140. So not a huge difference. I know my KU36's lasted about 1 track day and maybe 8000km's, so they don't last either.

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts..

Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ?

Will either get these or splurge on the yokos :thumbsup:

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs ;)

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

Care to expand on this mate? You get some people wanting them to be the mother of their children and others hating them.

They work well but there are little niggly things when first setting them up that can be a pain in the butt.

I think the main reason i dislike 1 was a poor wastegate setup. Car is coming back for a external gate to remove the small tomei internal.

It's not just the treadwear indicator that you need to worry about in terms of grip. Sidewall also plays a massive part, hence the AD08s are as good as they are.

I had RSR's, they'd done 3-4 track days before i sold them (and rims) to a mate, with a good 3,000kms on the street. Hardly any tread missing at all...

As i said RSR's last fine.

I got 10,000kms out of a 2nd hand set of AD08s and did a LOT of hill runs. Ontop of that did maybe 3-4 skidpan/motorkhana days, 4WD donuts on 3 occasions, 100+ launches - you name it I did it.

All of this in the HMAS GTR which has many more KGs than lighter RWD brothers and you'd think would chew tyres even faster.

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

For $400 in 17" - you are well into AD08 territory... They are miles better than a KU36 and a RSR - provided you have the suspension/grip to complement them and make them work for you as it's not just tyres that effect grip.

Even stone cold i could tell the difference when i had AD08s on or RSRs ;)

They also work better at different pressures. I was down to around 30-32psi on AD08 for them to be at thier fastest. The car felt like it was quite loose (compared to 32-34psi i was using earlier), but the lap times were better (track battle @ thunderdome) so ye... I'd been pretty consistent over 2 days and only play with pressures in the last 2 sessions and then noticed the times dropping.

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Edited by SimonR32

End of the day if you are killing a set of tyres in 10 laps on a single circuit day, you need to learn how to drive and not lock up under brakes. You should get 6-10 track days out of a set + some road KM's without any drama in the world.

This is me in a nutshell :blush:

On that last track day I did with those tyres I was really experimenting though, trying to see how late I could brake, how hard I could accelerate, how much speed I could carry through the corners, etc. As a result I lost it a number of times. Was one hell of a day though :D

I agree AD08's are amazing tyres, they do however get very slippery once they start getting overheated when pushed fairly hard, which is where a real r-comp would be much better. But for half the price you would never complain

Totally agree the R-Comp would still be miles better but they let me compete in street class in a few events and I was still faster than EVO's on R-comps :)

I never got them to a slippery point - I mean the car was getting skaty, but it was doing that from the first lap. Great tyre - highly recommend springing the extra

Im not sure how much tyre choice has to do with it.

i remember speaking to a few great minds about that sort of thing who gave me great insight. from memory, manufacturers like porsche use wider tyres to get the same levels of grip with a better wear ratio. the concept behind that is in the weight of the car over the area of tyre.

the smaller the tyre is the more force it will have per unit of area. so a skinny tyre will have more pressure applied per square inch than a wider tyre.

i also read that wider tyres can give the illusion of more grip by needing more energy to turn and make lose grip. generally the skinnier tyres and wheels were seen as more efficient which is why in the early days of F1 they would run tiny tyres.

nowadays we are always pushing the boundaries with speed and need wider stuff to distrubute the wear and need less changes in a single race.

annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddd traction @ 300kw discussion BEGIN:

Well i went from spinning my 255 nankangs in 1st 2nd and 3rd gears with a kaaz 2 way until today when i threw on a set of nitto invos it only spins a little bit in 1st and 2nd now but these tyres are almost silent whilst breaking traction CRAZY only drove them bout 15km home and im VERY impressed so far :yes:

Going for a drive in the hills tomorrow to see how they are in the twisties :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...