Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Oil Control On Circuits

djr81

By djr81,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

r33_racer
r33_racer

The ACL/Ross pistons I have seen have the closest ring set. I have ACL/Ross's in my RB25 and they have a 1.2mm top and a 1.5mm second. Maybe they have changed it to a 1.5mm on both which is great ne

Posted Images

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

SimonR32, on 16 Sept 2013 - 13:31, said:

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board.

Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help.

I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can...

Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

you will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

Just read your plan, almost exactly the same plan but you didn't mention if you put a one way valve in the catch can drain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...