Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

had to remove my washer bottle filler neck as my battery had to be fully pushed against the chassis.

so gonna have to connect a clear hose and run it from the washer bottle into the engine bay. dodgey but it'll work :miner:

I'll just ditch the stock washer bottle and buy a small universal one. Either relocate it to somewhere else in the engine bay if it fits, otherwise to the boot. Stock one is ugly anyway :P

I'll just ditch the stock washer bottle and buy a small universal one. Either relocate it to somewhere else in the engine bay if it fits, otherwise to the boot. Stock one is ugly anyway :P

washer bottles are overated lol just bin it and dont run one.

A lot of people put the battery in the boot (for cars that don't already have it there) and get a fabricator to make a combined washer bottle/catch can to fit in the available space (some with cut outs for the intercooler piping). I am too cheap for that and I have found that my washer bottle can share the space with the piping by making some new brackets. I may have to go with the flexible filer hose as above^^^ but am not prepared to lose either front or rear washers they are good for an extra 10kw at least!

IAC valves can easily be replaced by a competent tuner. My Plazmaman plenum allowed me to run the stock RB25 IAC (upside down / had to extend two wires) but I ended up pissing it off and replacing it with a piece of flat steel, some silicon and the bolts that normally hold the IAC in place.

Not really, pwr steer idle up, a/c idle up, auto anti stall etc are all required for the niceties of a daily driver.... many afm based ecu's strugle without one. Nistune for one is happy to make upwards of 500rwkw but does not like having the iac removed.

if your ecu allows it and your not fussed about having a higher idle than std etc than yes it can be tuned around (mostly map based ecus).

The only people who seem to get good results with these are guys who need to justify the fact they sold it to the customer.... yes we tuned heaps yes they work (like std) would i put one on my own car ... no.

i wanted to run mine without IAC but my tuner advised against it for the above reasons for a/c, power steering etc as it is recommended to run it.

if i could, i would remove it and tune without it as it makes my engine bay look so messy.

Plenty of space in the boot for a washer bottle! - (no I'm not joking, that's where mine is).

Worth popping your boot to fill it up when you have this happy.gif

plazamann1328659221.jpg

Off topic here but gota say those rims on black look crazzy!

Off topic here but gota say those rims on black look crazzy!

screw that.... that whole car is super sexy.

Thanks! Looks totally different since this pic - alot has changed. Sadly it was the only shot I had that showed my plenum so I had to use it.

The plazmaman makes you actually look forward to changing plugs, instead of putting it off because of the annoying cross pipe set up :D

You mean the loss in torque? That's got nothing to do with the motor, it's the length of the runners on the intake. As a general rule, shorter runners = less mid-range more high end, longer runners = more mid-range less up top.

  • 2 weeks later...

Not really, pwr steer idle up, a/c idle up, auto anti stall etc are all required for the niceties of a daily driver.... many afm based ecu's strugle without one. Nistune for one is happy to make upwards of 500rwkw but does not like having the iac removed.

if your ecu allows it and your not fussed about having a higher idle than std etc than yes it can be tuned around (mostly map based ecus).

The only people who seem to get good results with these are guys who need to justify the fact they sold it to the customer.... yes we tuned heaps yes they work (like std) would i put one on my own car ... no.

Niceties of a daily driver? Lol. Sometimes I forget that my priorities don't extend to giving a shit about those things. Still the car functions perfectly well, doesn't stall, steers fine and doesn't have air-con. ;)

Bugger that, for a daily i want aircon :thumbsup: All i gotta do is figure out an A/C fan to replace the stock one as the Plazmaman intercooler is so much thicker than my old ARC :cool:

Quick question for those with FFPs and stock bovs, where are you relocating your bov to and how did you do it? I'm currently thinking about what I'm going to do with my stock GTR bov. Ideally I'd like to keep it, but if it's too much hassle/cost then I am considering just ditching it. As I understand it, the closer to the TB the better, yes? What about flanges, where can I get a weld on flange?

Quick question for those with FFPs and stock bovs, where are you relocating your bov to and how did you do it? I'm currently thinking about what I'm going to do with my stock GTR bov. Ideally I'd like to keep it, but if it's too much hassle/cost then I am considering just ditching it. As I understand it, the closer to the TB the better, yes? What about flanges, where can I get a weld on flange?

My fabricator put the bov near the ffp and it vents to atmosphere ( I have a G4 Link with a MAP sensor). I hate the sound. I plan to relocate it to the other side (hot side) of the intercooler so I can plumb it in. I will need a long vacuum line so may make up a hard line.

No nearer the T/B is not better. Garrett actually say as close as possible to the turbo. I am sure there will be a fluid dynamic engineer or suchlike who can correct me but my take is that bovs are not about flow but about pressure relief and so it doesn't matter where it is. Some manufacturers put them on the intercooler itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...