Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I need to install a new double din headunit to replace my R34 factory unit. After reading through the forums, it seems relatively simple to remove the unit however there replacing the wiring loom is beyond my mechanical abilities!

I know that JB, BDL, Braddon and Tuggeranong car audio do instllations around town. If there are others installers that people recommend, can you let me know?

Thanks

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392219-car-audio-canberra/
Share on other sites

If you're looking for a professional install (not DIY) head to see Warren at BDL car stereo in Fyshwick. If you like, you can tell him that Anthony Spink referred you and he will look after you, they are the best installers in Canberra, high quality of workmanship.

http://www.facebook.com/bdlcarstereo

If you check out their page they have a lot of pictures of installs they have completed, as well as some of their demo cars.

If you're looking for a professional install (not DIY) head to see Warren at BDL car stereo in Fyshwick. If you like, you can tell him that Anthony Spink referred you and he will look after you, they are the best installers in Canberra, high quality of workmanship.

http://www.facebook.com/bdlcarstereo

If you check out their page they have a lot of pictures of installs they have completed, as well as some of their demo cars.

x11ty for Wazza! He's my mate and you can name drop me as well if you want haha

They did my security system and i was not happy. my boot was not locking properly and most of the screws were missing when they took the dash out, didn't put back all the screws in. elite car sound & vision in belco installed a sound system in my cousin brothers car for $3grand and he is happy with the work they did. so if you want give a call to them as well

BDL Fyshwick have done all my Alarm systems - No complaints.

Audiotech - tuggeranong have done 4 full stereo systems - No complaints

Audiotech did my Double din HU and speakers in the 34 12months ago - all is good

They just did my R32 GTR about 2 months ago.

and last week I got them to replace the Airial Amplifier and earthed it, and Connected airial to AC to fix an inherint problem with all R32's radio reception problem.

As Ive used Tony (Audiotech) alot I get taken care of pretty well.

Cant go wrong with either shops. With using a shop you can go back and have it fixed. In DIY's your left wondering if you get it wrong.

Harder then to take it to a shop to resolve any issues.

I'd take it to Warren BDL Fyshwick if your new, These SAU guys dont praise easily but rag on shops pretty quick if there not happy.

My 2cents worth

*edit* I would never use JB.

+1 D.I.Y milk

Nissan adaptor harnesses are good.

I used a maxima one in my xtrail and it was sweet til I upgraded again but then I just modified the adaptor harness to suit. It left the standard harness unbutchered.

I just put a double din screen in my stagea and the last single din kenwood unit had been "professionally installed" (just before I bought it) with rounded screws, and 2 reels of electrical tape on poorly soldered connections. Not to mention hot glue gun'd and chopped up metal housing that secured the unit.

Wazza really gets around lol.

Also, yeah get a wiring harness and do it yourself or get verms to show you. It is not worth getting a shop to do it, you need to learn more bout your own car and how to do a basic head-deck change over.

If you have a skyline, it will need work and maintenance... Unless you are made of money learn and do the little easy bits yourself and if you get offered a hand from a SAU pro, dont waste the opportunity.

Its really easy to do and on the skylines there is heaps of room behind the standard head decks!

You can either get a wiring harness which we can wire into the new harness and then you can put the standard head unit back in!

Either way wont take long and soldering the joins makes a perfect connection!

Yeah, not hard to do at all. I've done head deck, sub + amp install and a full car PC in my car not too long ago.

If you decide to forego the harness (it does make it way easier as you can revert back to stock deck or change later on without needing to butcher your wiring loom too much) then pretty sure this wiring guide will apply to you http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf Just match it up to the instructions that come with your deck and you'll be set.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...