Jump to content
SAU Community

Swap N1 R34 Gtr For R35 + $$


Recommended Posts

ask Bobby how much he had his advertised on ebay for lol

($1M - im sure he didnt sell it for that much though)

Luckily, I believe eBay have a cap on the final value / listing fee for vehicles.

Otherwise, that would have been an expensive bill.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

For a quarter of a mill thats still represents good value for money for a super car imo. Would still beat a lot of cars today. I wonder if the owners drive them much or if they have them as a collectors and keep them in storage.

well theres only 19 of them so i'd be pretty careful. Its rarer than a lot of higher-end hypercars that cost many times the cost of a Z-tune (AM One-77 springs to mind).

I know in Japan you sometimes see one at those Daikoku Futo meets so they do get driven, but imagine if you owned a car that was 1 of 19 in the existence. you certainly wouldn't drive it everyday. i might make an early morning breakfast run on the sunday though.

Just saying...

But let say if a Nismo Z-Tune did go for a 'Super Car' Price... I still couldn't justify it.

Sure, you'd own 1 out of the 20 that were built but if you take a look at the car, Nismo just made it special from a handful of 2nd hand V-Spec's.

I am aware that an extensive amount of work went into building the Nismo Z-Tunes which has Super Car performance.

My point is, if you had the cash, you'd buy a Base model R34 GTR and work / customise to how you'd want it and still have Super Car performance.

In having said all that, no doubt, I would still own a Z-Tune :)

But your super car performance base model R34 GTR would not hold the same value as a ztune, not even close.

Clear examples going through the for sale section here, cars with 100K+ work, sell for less than 100K.

I should add that a lot of these cars that are built, are faster than the ztune in at least one way or another.

Most of the people who can afford a ztune, aren't buying it to be able to drive it around the track.

Well thats what I believe.

But your super car performance base model R34 GTR would not hold the same value as a ztune, not even close.

Nismo Z-Tune only holds a higher value because of what Nismo did to it.

Clear examples going through the for sale section here, cars with 100K+ work, sell for less than 100K.

I should add that a lot of these cars that are built, are faster than the ztune in at least one way or another.

So would you pay for performance or for 'name' sake..?

Most of the people who can afford a ztune, aren't buying it to be able to drive it around the track.

Well thats what I believe.

Garage queen? :laugh:

Imaging owning a car thats only going to appreciate in value thats win win. You ever need to sell your worked up vspec you will never get your money back. At least with a z tune you can enjoy super car performance and at a minimum break even if your unlucky enough to sell it.

If I had one the most driving it would do is an occasional late night drive and a track day here and there to really enjoy the performance of it

Nismo Z-Tune only holds a higher value because of what Nismo did to it.

So would you pay for performance or for 'name' sake..?

Garage queen? :laugh:

Yeah, thats the truth. Only cause Nismo touched it thoroughly that it is worth so much.

A car with performance and has the ability to appreciate is a win for me. So in this case, the car does perform and has a name and the added bonus of appreciating value.

Garage queen, in a lot of ways yes.

But I reckon a ztune with 200000km would still be worth a lot haha.

Terry, how long ago was this? Just trying to scope a timeline for the 65% appreciation.

Forget the Z-tune - lets start talking about the KPGC10 coupes - how many of them are in Oz, and how much would they be going for?

I thought they were more expensive than this

Just needs the front diffuser

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280854798483#ht_1965wt_1396

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...