Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just what I have in mind mate the stock platic pipe is still there, I'm looking into buy the flange adaptor from eby for the HKS SSQ bov, I'll make a pipe to link to to of them and return it to the bock off spot on the greedy y pipe, s it looks like someone blocked it in.

I spoke to friend that contacted Jim wolf the Nissan guy, and was managed to tune a r32 ecu nd get arond this, I have know idea what they did but the car is running atom bov's and it a beast running 1.9 bars no rich problems surging or anything like that.

Still willing to send money for real personal help even if I learn about something else.

Thanks mate besides all these critics say you make sense, and it speaks about there tuning logic in there heads. Light bulbs should be going on but the fuse is blown. Lol thanks again mate, I can't believe I never even thought of this. It was similar to my GTST it did it to but not as bad and I isolated the cell and pulled the fuel out and the self learning idle did the rest but seeing that the GTR is 2 times the car, two time the bov's gates, 2 tme the simtoms.

I'm working on it and will update the post and have a video to show the the guys with the blown fuse.

Edited by MJTru
  • 4 months later...
  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you can't understand why Plumb back BOVs are essential for AFM sensing ECUs, sell your car and buy a push bike.

f**k, its not rocket science.

I don't care how many people have cars that have ATMO and AFMS and "apparently work" because the logs and AFRs will show otherwise.

Has anyone ever done back to back test on dyno to prove that stocker are better than vented?

Good question, I for one would like to see results.

CRD removed my old trumpet HKS Bovs off my GTR, which i noticed no issue with, and replaced with OEM (running AFM's at that time)

330kws. I had ESP replace the E11v2 with a Platinum Pro 2000 now running MAFless and still running the stock BOVs

350kws

I loved the noise of the HKS SSQV Bov on my 32 GTS-t with 2530. When I sold that I grew up. and now when I hear the fluttter I silently think wanker.

Different strokes for different folks

Back on topic. Was the issue resolved Travis/Jez ?

I'm not one for tuners saying "what you have is shit" striaght up. Thats just me.

CRD said take em off. They were my tuners so I listend.

just stick some 35 afm on it problem solved

An R53 AFM will still be metering air that has been ingested by the engine and then dumped without it's knowledge. Unless you can run an afm on the BOV to subtract fuel, or go map like anyone with a brain does, you will have issues.

just stick em on the hot side after the bov's and retune to suit if you really want to run am bov's

It will still read negative airflow, I fitted mine in backwards accidentally and noticed it runs under 1v instead of over. It just make it harder to tune costing more coin. The stock bov, with or without a grub screw in the bypass hole is usually the best option with any afm.

Obviously know nothing about air displacement?

If there is a sudden vacuum behind the afm, the air is going to move that way isn't it... Meaning moving backwards through the AFM.. Can't be good for the readings can it?

Try fitting it backwards then, it will read less than 1 volt I guarantee. One way sensor my arse. They are better I admit but not magical in any way, and nowhere near as reliable.

Try fitting it backwards then, it will read less than 1 volt I guarantee. One way sensor my arse. They are better I admit but not magical in any way, and nowhere near as reliable.

have a look at the inside of the sensor were the hot wire is it's in the middle of a u shaped wall so air can only enter one way

mounted backwards I'd guess they'd only read anything when the valves open

regardless its a lot of work just to run am bov's to atmosphere but if the guys really really keen its something to try

post-15018-0-22085200-1358665322_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1400r

That's actually pretty clever.

FWIW, that will still read an air flow with reverse flow in the pipe, because as air flows backwards past the discharge port, there are two possibilities, depending on how the pressures balance out. First possibility is it would place a small suction (basically by venturi effect) on the discharge, and suck a little air through. The second possibility is that the suction on the normal entry port would be greater (because it's facing backwards in the flow it is equivalent to reading the inverse of velocity pressure) and you'd still get a flow across the sensor, just in reverse. Either way, the magnitude of the measurement would be much smaller than the actual flow, so probably pretty good at isolating reverse flow effects.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...