Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys.i got a r33 fitted with the rb20e motor.what i want to know howstrong are the diff and sideshafts fitted to this model.are they as strong as the turbo skylines' diffs and sideshafts.how do i know if its a r200 diff.my vin plate says rc4.00 does that mean its a r200 diff.if i want to fit a turbo diff do i need the whole casing or jus the intenals.hope anyone can help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393575-r33-diff-and-driveshaft-strength/
Share on other sites

Don't know about a RB20DE R33, but i'm fairly sure the 25DE and DET diffs/driveshafts are the same?

Few people having trouble with gearboxes on 25DE+T's or high powered RB20DET's, but rarely hear of blown diffs or drive shafts unless it's in BIG power applications.....

Any R200 diff is as strong as any other in the basic aspects (CW&P, centre casting, output halfshafts). In the case of the 2L R33, it's unlikely that the std diff is LSD. And even if it was, VLSDs are pus anyway. Don't look at putting any other centre into your existing housing. Just buy a secondhand mechanical diff already in a housing when you can get one from someone.

I got an R32GTR rear end in my Stagea both for the mechanical LSD and because the 6 x 1 half shafts are thicker than the R33 ones (other advantages are aluminium carriers and twin pot brakes although you will have to change the shocks).

my diff does that.i even done the one wheel up test and itd very hard to turn but when one wheel is on a loose surface like sand and the other on hard surface the one on sand would spin with a light touch on the gas pedal.is that normal for a vlsd

oops sorry man.my diff acts like a lsd.i've jacked up my car n both wheels turn in the same direction.same said to jack up one wheel n if it hard to turn then its a lsd.i've done that test too n its hard to turn the wheel.do viscous lsd work when the wheels turn slow cause when one wheel is on a hard surface n the other on sand the one on sand starts to spin n no power goes to the other wheel

<br />My diff is a piece of shit, limited slip my f**ken ass.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

I've just been driving mine for the first time since putting the helical centre in it. As far as I'm concerned, the VLSD that was in it before was effectively open. I now have to learn to drive the car again, because everything it does is different!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...