Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah Nik

2011 Rules (assuming 2012 is same)

ASSOCIATE CLASSES

For members with vehicles other than a Subaru. Any non-WRX cars (Motorbikes are not eligible to compete) with the exception of open wheeler race cars.

Cars will be grouped into one of the 4 categories depending on car type or a factored engine capacity. (See table)

AU3 - is for cars under 3 litre engine capacity

AO3 - is for cars equal to or over 3 litre engine capacity

Skylines - is for all types of Nissan Skyline

Evo – is for Mitsubishi Evo’s participating in the Evo Cup

CAPACITY MULTIPLICATION FACTORS FOR VEHICLES

For all Vehicle Types, capacity must be calculated on the following basis:

Rotary Engines multiply displacement by 1.5

Turbo Charged multiply displacement by 1.7

Supercharged multiply displacement by 1.7

Forced Induction Rotary multiply displacement by 1.5, then by 1.7

Important note: A minimum of a 4 point harness is highly recommended to all competitors but is compulsory for all modified Skylines.

Hmmm 34/90 entries.

I really should get off my arse and get the car serviced and pick up my new harness...

Oh and new fire extinguisher, need a new mount after scruits @ Forum Battle farked mine royally by losing the locking clips :rant:

Standard r32 points are fine. That's all I have. But you will need a blue battery triangle. Though that being said they keep changing the regs and I think if your battery is in the factory location you might get away without one. But I'd knock one up out of book contact or blue tape just to be safe!

Cheers

Quick question for you guys, I know Im prob going to get an obvious answer on this but anyways.

I have some KU36's which I bought for the track, they have been used 3 or so times for track use and 2 of them are just on the wear indicators (on an angle weirdly enough) but only in the centre of the tread, theres still heaps of meat left of the outside of the tyres, looks like they were over inflated or something and have worn down the centre more, so will these pass scrutineering? I know technically it has to be above the wear indicator but as I mentioned Its only on the very centre strip of the tread thats worn down on an angle and to the indicator, there far from bald.

Just dont wanna pay and rock up only to find out the tyres wont pass :whistling:

Weather front is coming in faster than originally forecast. And I'd expect that trend to continue. So think storm will pass on Friday and we should be pretty clear for Saturday.

Gonna be an awesome one with only a small group.

Nup... No last min entry for me.

Need to get the diff sorted and the car serviced, don't have the cashola for 2 weeks as kents owe me money, but wont pay up :rant:

simple fix for that... don't lend kents money in the first place ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...