Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is the tacho in the S13 reading correctly? Sounds like the ECU is hitting it's rev limiter (constant miss noise you mention). Maybe get another stock or an after market tacho and see what it reads? Something like an SAFC NEO or Greddy Infometer will also do the trick - see what the ECU is seeing.

old mate of mine had this problem when we put a 25 into his s14, would just rev up then bog down/ pop/ lose power.. definitely was NOT LIMITER..

We tried another r33 ecu which we knew worked properly, and in the s14 the problem was still there.

he had the loom checked and was all ok, so only thing that never got checked was sensors on the engine

still has the problem now, keen to know if u find out the cause..

old mate of mine had this problem when we put a 25 into his s14, would just rev up then bog down/ pop/ lose power.. definitely was NOT LIMITER..

We tried another r33 ecu which we knew worked properly, and in the s14 the problem was still there.

he had the loom checked and was all ok, so only thing that never got checked was sensors on the engine

still has the problem now, keen to know if u find out the cause..

EDIT: just remembered something , if u backed up right before limiter and got on the gas again it would hit limiter normally... does urs do the same?

DOUBLE EDIT: WTF HAPPENED TO MY EDIT HAHAHAHA

Edited by BrynDETT

don't get why half the ppl on this forum give sarcastic/ useless information just because they think the topic is not worthy...

think some ppl need to need to shut up when they have nothing to say, instead of trying to get their post count up...

end rant

OP might not know wat rpms he is reaching because the s13 tacho will read 1/3 out... the needle simply goes past the gauge..

it doesnt matter what rpm its reaching, its still not working properly

it is pretty critical actually to know what rpm it's reaching.

the op needs to include more relevant facts if the interwebz is going to solve the issue.

otherwise take it to a real life shop with a mechanic man who can diagnose accurately from seeing the car and how the motor is running, and fix.

you can't just say "it's missing and sounds weird, please diagnose".

Edited by Ronin 09

Does fitting a 6-cylinder engine into what is normally a 4-cylinder car involve anything that faintly resembles an adjustment to the tacho so that it now calculates for a 6-spark cycle instead of a 4-spark cycle?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...