Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had to get a noise test done last week, was 92 but have to be 90 or under, to pass the guy made up a 2.5" rear section with some triple flow 2.5" muffler, as soon as i passed i put the old one back on coz the 2.5 looked and sounded poo.

I was thinking about just using a hot dog just behind the cat, will this cut the db enough to make it legal, was told by a mate that an 18" one on his datsun dropped it 10db, hard to beleive since this red back 2.5 i had put on only dropped it 7 db, also will it be more of a benefit to put it in front/behind/in between the mufflers i already have?

Im looking to cut out 4-5db (or more if i can) without losing power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395071-hot-dog-muffler-for-dropping-4db/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FYI in car audio type noise measurement (SPL), at the 90db mark every additional 3db is considered to be 'twice' as loud. So 4db is a pretty decent drop, get a muffler as a hot dog will just tone it down a little but probably still read similar.

I have a straight through varex with a hotdog in middle, 3 inch, 100 db open, 77 shut. magical. And my engineer signed off on it. Just dont use wot when closed or bad things will happen. that is unless you always want it quiet

Highly unlikely a hotdog will get you anymore than 1-2db in a proper test.

Need a stock exhaust or a welded in silencer at the rear

In normal 3" form my exhaust did 92, with 2.5" pipe and muffler behind the diff it did 85, that tells me that there is ways to make it legal without needing to weld shit in and resort to using a factory exhaust, what was the phrase i saw you use the other day "smart modding" with the right bits i will get a legal exhaust that will flow the 250rwkw i have and the 300 i will get after a tune.

The hard part is making it height legal and still look good, that will be my next task.

I have a straight through varex with a hotdog in middle, 3 inch, 100 db open, 77 shut. magical. And my engineer signed off on it. Just dont use wot when closed or bad things will happen. that is unless you always want it quiet

And if you have to do a db test they will probably tell you to change as its not allowed to be adjustable, does not matter what the engineer has signed off on.

Brett what is your current exhaust set up - ie. centre muffler(s) / rear mufflers, diameter and length of mufflers

a big fck off centre muffler is the solution

there's some talk of Borla mufflers here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/394860-tomei-extreme-ti-cat-back-exhaust-system/

Edited by Ronin 09

And if you have to do a db test they will probably tell you to change as its not allowed to be adjustable, does not matter what the engineer has signed off on.

Funny that, even though plenty of cars have variable mufflers from the factory, even taragos

Get a hotdog, you'd be surprised at what they can do. My system has only the cat, a hotdog and the Varex which is effectively a straight through pipe in open mode, which nets about 100db. Surely without the hotdog it's just a straight out exhaust, which would be heaps over 100db...

I have a straight through varex with a hotdog in middle, 3 inch, 100 db open, 77 shut. magical. And my engineer signed off on it. Just dont use wot when closed or bad things will happen. that is unless you always want it quiet

Same!

And if you have to do a db test they will probably tell you to change as its not allowed to be adjustable, does not matter what the engineer has signed off on.

When I went for my test the guy said Varex probably wouldn't be legal, I said my exhaust doesn't sound that loud when it's open so if it passes on open can you clear it? He said he might be able to do that, but open came back as 100db lol. It sure didn't sound like 100db.

The legal limit is ridiculous though, the standard system is only just legal and it's quiet as shit.

In normal 3" form my exhaust did 92, with 2.5" pipe and muffler behind the diff it did 85, that tells me that there is ways to make it legal without needing to weld shit in and resort to using a factory exhaust, what was the phrase i saw you use the other day "smart modding" with the right bits i will get a legal exhaust that will flow the 250rwkw i have and the 300 i will get after a tune.

The hard part is making it height legal and still look good, that will be my next task.

16-18" x 12" x 8" rear muffler

that will get your 3" exhaust legal easily if you have a decent middle muffler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...