Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a R32 GTS-T with a twin front pipe, cat, cat back and cannon muffler. I have a fmic and a pod. I also have a RB25 turbo that I have not put on yet.

My goal is to reach between 350 and 400 hp. I know that the RB25 turbo cannot reach that.

I have a chance to buy a used E-Manage unit with the loom or $200.00 but no cd or a flashed R32 GTS-T computer for $100.00.

The E-Manage is set to 1.1 boost(this is the only info the store has for it) and the flashed stock computer is set for pod, front pipe, catback exhaust, has the boost cut deativated and has the speedo cut deactivated.

Which one is a better buy? The stock flashed computer that is just plug and go or the E-Manage? I do not know when I can have the E-Manage tuned.

I have to choose by today Japan time.

Also if I put on the RB25 turbo, will the computers probably work fine? Also I have yet to buy a boost controller.

Best to buy a tuneable ecu. U need to tune ur ecu to suit ur particular car, especially when ur going for 350hp.

Few options but cheapest is normally a NIStune ecu.

U should save up for a bigger turbo, injectors, air flow meter and ecu.

For now just install the rb25 with the stock ecu, and get an upgraded fuel pump such as a walbro Gss342, and run with the stock ecu on sensible boost 12psi

Stock flashed computer is not plug and go. It would be plug and stick it on the dyno to see if it is anywhere near your current set up's requirements and then it is not tunable so has very limited use. E-manage is no use if you can't tune it. Since neither is any good to you forget about the deadline and set about getting a Nistune chipped ecu or pfc etc.

Best to buy a tuneable ecu. U need to tune ur ecu to suit ur particular car, especially when ur going for 350hp.

Few options but ceapest is normally a NIStune ecu.

U should save up for a bigger turbo, injectors, air flow meter and ecu.

For now just install the rb25 with the stock ecu, and get an upgraded fuel pump such as a walbro Gss342, and run with the stock ecu on sensible boost 12psi

350 is my main goal down the line, for now I just want to get a higher whp than stock and try it with tuning. So even though the flashed cpu has the mods I have, it probably has differences that were tuned for the other car? I could run into problems with it?

Would it be worth it to put in a GTR pump? My friend has one he can give me.

Where can I get a Nistune? I live in Japan, I can try to ask around but is it something you have to have your computer flashed on a Dyno to do?

I wouldn't buy any of that junk that you "need an answer by today"

Nistune is clearly the best and cheapest option for you.

I have to decide today because the store will only hold the parts for one day, its a popular used after market parts store. How do I get a Nistune?

Stock flashed computer is not plug and go. It would be plug and stick it on the dyno to see if it is anywhere near your current set up's requirements and then it is not tunable so has very limited use. E-manage is no use if you can't tune it. Since neither is any good to you forget about the deadline and set about getting a Nistune chipped ecu or pfc etc.

I might be able to have the E-Manage tuned by the summer, I just have to find a affordable tuner. If it is only around 500 dollars I can do it soon.

I cannot find any PFC for my RB20 here. I have access to a PFC for a RB25.

So the flashed computer is out if I was to choose one?

Forget deciding today.

Go and do some decent research before making a decision.

Too many decide "right now" and then end up wasting their money - which is the path you are on right now.

Sounds like ur trying to do it too quick and too cheap. Shop around for a 2nd hand power fc seeing ur in japan. U should be able to find one for under $1000. Take ur time and do ur research. Do it once, do it right.

PFC is probably the way to go, Nistune is a good cheaper option but there wouldn't be any tuners in Japan comfortable with it (let alone the english only interface).

PFC is probably the way to go, Nistune is a good cheaper option but there wouldn't be any tuners in Japan comfortable with it (let alone the english only interface).

He'd probably have an easier time finding someone who can still program EPROMs using ROMedit (with it's annoying Japlish interface), seeing as that is where it was born and used for 10+ years.

My vote is also for a used PowerFC. But if it was me, I'd get a Nistune setup and tune it myself. Well, that's what I did, so that's what I would.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
  • Create New...