Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a R32 GTS-T with these mods; twin front pipe, catback exhaust, fmic, pod and soon will put on a RB25 turbo. Looking at computers now. But until I buy a ecu and tune the car, with these mods when is the time to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump and injectors?

My guess is the second hand pump is exactly that 2nd hand.

For the price of a new pump these days $160-$200 direct replacement why going 2nd hand?

Also its the life source of the car without fuel you will lean out and do more damage then $200 for a pump

Why not, I got a s/h tomei and its brilliant

Thats different in a way. Its more than likely not that old.

But still i would definately prefer not to use 2nd hand fuel pumps.

I knew op was going to say a 2nd hand GTR pump.

With most things that run in fuel, once they are removed they dry up, seals swell etc etc.

since you guys are talking fuel pumps, whats the limit of power for walbro 255L/h and 555nismo's on pump98?:whistling:

Pretty sure thay nicked named them Walbro 500, as in 500HP.

Basically they are generally good to 300+ wkw in most applications. Ive seen so many cars putting that power figure out, and more with only a single in tank pump.

Cant comment on Nismos one.

I brought a genuine walbro for 130 they come around cheap sometimes keep an eye out. Dont buy second hand, its not worth it when your chasing power increases.

Heres a mean set-up my mates put in is R32.4, 1200HP SX pump to keep his 420wkw gtr fed :D

post-89260-0-00153000-1332153107_thumb.jpg

Edited by HYBR3D

Nismo will do 400rwkw

Walbro - anyone's guess. They are very hit and miss. Mine nosed over @ 270rwkw, others have run into issues at less, some have made more. Gamble you take really. Walbro's from their own information - don't like higher pressures like a Bosch/Nismo etc perform ok.

In engineering is a term called B.S.F.C

(Brake Specific Fuel Consumption)

You could use this caculator to give you an idea about fuel requirements for injectors and pump.

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...