Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So had a quiet day at work today and luckily the boss went home early morning. So i ended up finishing spraying the cage in the 'Plumb Purple' looks pretty schmick. I also touched up the floor with some matte black including the harnes eyelets. Then bolted the GTR seats into place. Then ran the harness as required on both sides. Adjusted mine up took a few goes and just need the mrs to sit on her side to adjust hers. They feel good and weird at the same time as ive never had proper racing harnesses in a car ive driven before. Also got the bonnet pins mounted and secured properly in the radiator support. Just need some rubber spaces to remove the free play in the pin itself. So heres a few picks. Now just saving for front rear screens and sunroof insert. Then shes ready for racing :)

cage_zps3cffe9ad.jpg

cage2_zpsc34e6042.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

So finaly a small update. Wired up the AFR meter to the new 02 sensor. And found a small cheap china spec POD filter that fits where i need it to. With the headlight removed and carbon funnel put there will be good enough. Picking up a full cat back exhaust friday to make it legal for texi days. And saving for windows which should be next month or so.

IMG_1480_zpsa286e395.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

So received a nice box in the mail yesterday. A 12" thermo fan. Having already wired in a relay and switch ages ago it was a simple task of mounting it to the radiator and connecting 2 wires. Presto the fan is alive. Seems to move a solid amount of air which should be more then enough for those track days ;)

Also got a nice used 3" exhaust brought to my house for a cheap price. Its cat back full system, beat up but will do the job perfectly. Dont have picks of it yet as it needs to be modified so i will be able to un bolt the side pipe where the cat would normally sit and attach the full system to make it a nice 2 bolt on off 5 min job. My original exhaust hangers are all still in tact along with all the D rubbers :)

Update to come shortly with picks of exhaust before and after :)

fan_zps211e5aa4.jpg

Big red is main ISO switch, from left to right, Fuel Pump, Alternator Power, Thermo Fan. As the original wiring of the car was altered when i brought it to run the battery in the boot for some reason the signal wire for the alternator wasnt working so i just wired in a new one with a switch. The custom fuse box runs all the switch power, gauges, thermo power ect, along with running the standard 32 fuse boxes. Rear of car is custom wired by me as I had no normal rear harness.

  • 3 weeks later...

So update-

Exhaust has been modified now so a full system can run with a muffler and a cannon out the back 3 1/2 inch. Now all thats required is to unbolt the 3 bolt flange and swap the full system for the side pipe. Now she just needs window glass and i can take her out on track. Not bad going from a rolling shell to full car in under 12 months.

If you want to be able to swap your exhaust out really quickly, use what is called a tri clover. Basically like a v band clamp, but it does up with a wing nut, so you dont even need a spanner or ratchet.

Have one on my R32 GTR so for track days i can swap it out in under 5mins at the track if need be for some straight through goodness.

MMMMM straight through goodness lol. Ill keep it in mind ;)

So big update, well not really just picks. Plumbed up the catch can properly, ordered the windows off FATZ so they will be coming and be installed on monday :) She will look like a new car with glass in the rear and a non smashed front screen. Decided will attempt to plexi the quarters and sunroof. Cant wait to see what it looks like. Then shes ready to go! Also installed second hand dash cluster. Purely for the RPM. The dash lights work. Tacho works. Speedo needs the drive in the RB25 box modified. Fuel gauge, oil pressure and boost not working as the rear harness is only a 7 core trailer wire i did myself and using aftermarket oil pressure gauge. But makes the interior look complete. Needs door trims as well.

Here's some recent picks of exhaust and engine. Please not the catch can lines have now been secured with a single U clamp to the RH T belt bolt area. So holds them down off the bonnet :)

zorst_zpsd64a6705.jpg

catch_zpse8a21270.jpg

1013382_10152973788185521_995750091_n_zp

Ah just the stocker. I couldnt rape his old beast to much lol. Ive already grabbed the harnesses and now the rear window lol. Pretty sure im gonna have to give him a free sponsor spot on my car cause half the stuff in it is from him :P

Yah the entire front end is pretty much from fatz. Intercooler, Front bar, Lights, blinkers, radiator, front glass, rear glass, bar support front, carbon style grille, both harnesses. So yah lol a fair bit of money has gone his way ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...