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LAWL well Im at work, so I cant divulge into massive detail.

I have just bought a Snow Performance kit, which I have seen a couple of other members run, and paid about $470 delivered. Its got a digital controller that can plot water volume relative to boost, and has start/end point adjustments so you can configure your car to run it on high boost only or whatever else you want to do.

Aquamist systems seem more popular in the US and are fitted to all the cars in the european rally championship. I dont know much about those kits other than they have the brand name in the market.

Water more or less quenches the heat in the boost charge and turns into steam when it does so. Steam ends up acting like boost and increases your dynamic compression ration. More or less you will end up with double the cooling effort of a good quality FMIC (or better) and will be able to put more boost and timing into the mix without detonation. I am doing this as a replacement to E85 as I want to retain my 98 setup. I will be running straight demineralised water (no alcohol as I want to keep this perfectly feasible).

Application specific data I have found is that it takes 60*c out of charge temps and 100*c out of EGT's. That would add a massive amount of ping resistance to regular piss 98, without the worry of varying content flex fuel or needing to stock up a bloody CSR E85 drum in your garage. No Jerry cans when you head to the track either. f**k Jerry, I hate that prick.

If set up right I am anticipating it will make reaching the maximum flow from a compressor a lot easier, and will help bring boost on stronger. The cooling effect will stop the 98 going off before its meant to, and the resultant dynamic compression will put more volume through the turbine and in essence bring it on faster and harder (like a high comp motor).

Also, everything post nozzle will be squeaky clean :) if your motor ever blows you will think you blew a brand new motor by how little carbon build up you will find in the IM and ports :thumbsup:

Damn you Jez, starting this topic 10mins after I posted in another thread.

Copied from the HG thread:

"with the WMI kits, would it be "better" to spend the extra 150 odd bux for a progressive type system as opposed to the old on/off Hobbs switch setup????

Have been looking int WMI for a long time and the $$$ seems about right to grab one."

Mafia said that little tank lasted 1 tank of fuel on his thread. I think he must have been thrashing it the entire tank lol.

I am aiming to have my car tuned well without WMI then try to add WMI from that point on. I will probably have Jez focus his tuning on actuator pressure first, then maybe up to 10 or 12psi without any WMI, then we can introduce the WMI and see where it ends up.

I want to know if im out of water I can simply hit the low boost or turn the EBC off and keep hammering on. More convenient than being stuck in goulburn with no E85 stations around lol.

Question time

Mafia, by the looks of your pics your just using water yeh??

How long does your tank last?

And is ther much of a gain to be had running water/meth as opposed to just water?

From What i understand the methanol in the mix will increase the effective octane of the fuel. Feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.

Mafia said that little tank lasted 1 tank of fuel on his thread. I think he must have been thrashing it the entire tank lol.

I am aiming to have my car tuned well without WMI then try to add WMI from that point on. I will probably have Jez focus his tuning on actuator pressure first, then maybe up to 10 or 12psi without any WMI, then we can introduce the WMI and see where it ends up.

I want to know if im out of water I can simply hit the low boost or turn the EBC off and keep hammering on. More convenient than being stuck in goulburn with no E85 stations around lol.

This is my idea of how to do it as well.

So when it runs out you simply go back to what you previously ran.

I would have to get a different actuator then to be able to have the variance because right now it's 20psi +

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