Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah mate, simple enough. I have just done this on my a31 cefiro with the rb20det so it's a similar setup apart from the power steering fluid cooler on the 32.

Step 1- either replace rear rack with a hicas lockbar or get your existing rack locked up- not a bad option for the street as it still looks standard. (obviously drain your reservoir first)

Step 2- as now the rears taken care of you will have 2 lines running from the front steering rack to the rear, these can be fully removed and the outlets on the front rack won't need to be plugged as this runs seperately to the front.

Step 3- remove the solenoid from the engine bay and the two lines running from it to the front rack. You will end up with a extra inlet from your reservoir and an extra outlet from your pump, all you Need to do now is loop the two together to keep the flow or since it's a 32 just use your fluid cooler in between, or a good oil cooler since your allready there.

Step 4-

Yeah mate, simple enough. I have just done this on my a31 cefiro with the rb20det so it's a similar setup apart from the power steering fluid cooler on the 32.

Step 1- either replace rear rack with a hicas lockbar or get your existing rack locked up- not a bad option for the street as it still looks standard. (obviously drain your reservoir first)

Step 2- as now the rears taken care of you will have 2 lines running from the front steering rack to the rear, these can be fully removed and the outlets on the front rack won't need to be plugged as this runs seperately to the front.

Step 3- remove the solenoid from the engine bay and the two lines running from it to the front rack. You will end up with a extra inlet from your reservoir and an extra outlet from your pump, all you Need to do now is loop the two together to keep the flow or since it's a 32 just use your fluid cooler in between, or a good oil cooler since your allready there. Low pressure fittings will be fine as its not under load- its just recirculating your reservoir.

Step 4- Clean Up and enjoy 2ws action

This has been extensively written up all over the internet.

FWIW, I went the whole hog, and replaced my HICAS rear subframe with a non-HICAS subframe. Opportunity to replace the subframe bushes etc etc was taken. No nasty HICAS tie rods and tie rod ends left now either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
×
×
  • Create New...