Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Excellent guide mate.

never done this as I have been too scared incase I stuff up the timing.

Just to clarify - the tenisioner, when you put it back on you just simply thread the nut onto the bolt by hand, put the belt on and then use a hex key to slowly tighten it until there is a firm amount of preasure on the belt and the nut will tighten itself up? or what did I miss?

  • Like 1

Sorry for the late reply, I forgot i posted in this section!

Excellent guide mate.

never done this as I have been too scared incase I stuff up the timing.

Just to clarify - the tenisioner, when you put it back on you just simply thread the nut onto the bolt by hand, put the belt on and then use a hex key to slowly tighten it until there is a firm amount of preasure on the belt and the nut will tighten itself up? or what did I miss?

Once the belt is at the correct tension you'll have to tighten the nut.

  • 4 weeks later...

step 12 help.

you tension the belt with an allen key in the tensioner (as it shows in the picture for step 12) and then tighten the bolt that holds the tensioner in that tensioned position. you then turn the crank over 2 full rotations and check the timing marks are all lined up correctly. once you are happy with the timing marks (on both the cam pulleys and crank) you check the tension on the belt.

a quick note, if you go past the timing marks, do not turn the crank backward (counter clockwise) to line the timing marks up again as it moves the slack to the idler pulley side of the belt not the tensioner side (tensioner side is where you check belt tension) and can make you think the belt is tight when in actual fact, the slack will be between the crank pulley and the exhaust pulley. if this doesn't make sense to you, just remember, do not check the timing marks or belt tension after rotating the engine counter clockwise at all. if you go slightly past the timing marks, continue to rotate clockwise another 2 full rotations until they line up again (never rotate backwards), then check the tension.

only then once you're happy with the timing and tension after rotating clockwise you should do the final tension on the tensioner pulley bolt to ensure it will not loosen off over time and lose belt tension.

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

hi in the final step, says 12 but im assuming its 13, it says to use threadlocker on the crank bolt, going through the pics it doesnt look like its ever taken out...

hi in the final step, says 12 but im assuming its 13, it says to use threadlocker on the crank bolt, going through the pics it doesnt look like its ever taken out...

The crank bolt is removed to get the balancer off then was put back in to bar the engine over. Would then have been taken out again, loctite-ed and re-installed after balancer was put on. Here is a screenshot from the workshop manual:

Timingbelttension_zpsad9ff647.jpg

It's a bit hard to understand but basically you need to install/torque the centred idler, leave the eccentric idler loose, bar the engine over CLOCKWISE (the most important bit) two rotations or more, then just use the allen key to hold it in the position its in while torqueing up the bolt for the idler

Also just a quick note guys, check your balancer condition when its out, mine broke and caused an oil leak etc only a few thousand kms after it was done so have a look for damage, there is pics of the old and new in my build thread somewhere but i am too lazy to find them for you lol

I was thinking about attempting this myself on my '34 but there are too many things

that go can wrong for my liking. Maybe some more clarification might help. As in,

did you use a specific tool to re-press the harmonic balancer back on? How did

you stop the engine from turning to loosen and tighten the crank bolt?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for not replying guys, I've been away for ahwile!

I was thinking about attempting this myself on my '34 but there are too many things
that go can wrong for my liking. Maybe some more clarification might help. As in,
did you use a specific tool to re-press the harmonic balancer back on? How did
you stop the engine from turning to loosen and tighten the crank bolt?

I used a pry-bar to remove it, there are tool's made for removing the balancer but fitting it doesn't require anything; just make sure its pushed on as far as it can go and do up the bolt (Tight).

  • 2 weeks later...

hi thanks for the guide. just to clarify when you turn the crank by hand clockwise for 2 revolutions and it all lines up, it basically means the engine is in TDC (top dead centre) right? therefore you can tighten everything, re-assemble and start engine with keys?

If you have lined them up and turned it twice yes you can start the car. If you have a normal belt i dont see why you want to start the car unless if you have a Gates timing belt and you want to hear if it whirrrs. To instruct you safetly line them up all of them, tension it then turn it twice. Plus if you want to start it you need to have the CAS back in or else you might screw up your tune.

if im wrong may someone correct me but this is the procedure ive done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...