Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I no, i mite one day come to like them if I can sort what ever is wrong with the dam things.

Anyone got any sudjustions ?

Any "up, down, up's" in size in the exhaust?

Cam timing?

Tired engine?

I no, i mite one day come to like them if I can sort what ever is wrong with the dam things.

Anyone got any sudjustions ?

Should be bout same as mine as almost same set up , i think should change cam timing to what mine is :)

The exhuast was farked when it made 330rwkw, 2.3inch front pipes into a 3inch catback than went down to 2.5inch in the cannon.

It's now got 3inch tuned length front pipes into a 3.5inch merge. Decat, and I'm just waiting on the 3.5inch tomei ti catback to turn up.

See how it all works out when the new system on bolted up. Than jez can do a full tune on it, cam gears, and all.

It's got type b pon cams.

Azza's made awesome power on the same setup I the same dyno.

His got a forged motor, but my motor is 160 across all 6 so it shouldn't b an issue.

C what happens

The exhuast was farked when it made 330rwkw, 2.3inch front pipes into a 3inch catback than went down to 2.5inch in the cannon.

Not exactly the turbo's fault with the little 5's trying to blow out of that man.

So what's considered responsive with -5's? 1 bar at 3600 rpm?

from memory my rb2630 with -10s made 1bar @ 3krpm, I'd need to dig it up as I posted my results in each gear on gtr UK forum

Not exactly the turbo's fault with the little 5's trying to blow out of that man.

Yea I no, the prob I had was I made up at 4inch system took it back to the dyno and only made 7kw more.

Im just saying -5 on something like your motor is crazy. It deserves a decent turbo. Gunna b awesome!!

Should be bout same as mine as almost same set up , i think should change cam timing to what mine is :)

Next time your under the bonnet man, could u have a look at what yours are set at? Maybe take a pic?

Next time your under the bonnet man, could u have a look at what yours are set at? Maybe take a pic?

Let me know when your back and i will meet you at Jez' s and we will have a look :cheers:

So what's considered responsive with -5's? 1 bar at 3600 rpm?

You won't get that on a 2.6l unless it's fully loaded up :)

On the street it's around 4000-4200rpm in 3rd for a 2.6l if memory serves me correct

u are the first unhappy -5 customer I have heard...am I allowed to ask who is your tuner?

Add me to the list then for street/hill runs/motorkhana stuff the -5s are shithouse on a 2.6l

Cars was significantly faster with the smaller turbos coming on much faster in a on/off throttle scenario as -5s are lazy and need a stroker.

Interesting as I found my other gtr with -5s very responsive. That was a 2.6 as well.

What do u think is a good turbo for the application u refer to above?

Its not a loaded question- just like to hear your opinion.

Well given I've said many times over that I had -9s taken off to put the -5s on (so i can comment on both, unlike most)... Wouldn't say it's particularly difficult to come to such a conclusion :merli:

I've had GTSS, GTRS & -5's on a 2.6ltr (as well as -10s on a 26/30 which Paul has driven).

^ Absolutely you can comment on -9's back2back with -5's as you've had both...really is horses for courses though as I personally found GTSS's way too small (not sure how -9's compare to GTSS though)

I think it depends on the sort of driving you do. Guys that do the 'on/off/on' driving IE hillclimbs, skid pan work and track work will always favour the small stuff.

Steveo overlayed a 2.6 with SS's and my 2.8 with 5's and down low they were pretty much the same. Top end, well we know what happened.

2.6 with -5's is still lethargic, however peoples definitions of being lazy/lethargic/laggy are all different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...