Jump to content
SAU Community

Piglet's Rebuild Of His Busted Tomei 2.8


Recommended Posts

I no, i mite one day come to like them if I can sort what ever is wrong with the dam things.

Anyone got any sudjustions ?

Any "up, down, up's" in size in the exhaust?

Cam timing?

Tired engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I no, i mite one day come to like them if I can sort what ever is wrong with the dam things.

Anyone got any sudjustions ?

Should be bout same as mine as almost same set up , i think should change cam timing to what mine is :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The exhuast was farked when it made 330rwkw, 2.3inch front pipes into a 3inch catback than went down to 2.5inch in the cannon.

It's now got 3inch tuned length front pipes into a 3.5inch merge. Decat, and I'm just waiting on the 3.5inch tomei ti catback to turn up.

See how it all works out when the new system on bolted up. Than jez can do a full tune on it, cam gears, and all.

It's got type b pon cams.

Azza's made awesome power on the same setup I the same dyno.

His got a forged motor, but my motor is 160 across all 6 so it shouldn't b an issue.

C what happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The exhuast was farked when it made 330rwkw, 2.3inch front pipes into a 3inch catback than went down to 2.5inch in the cannon.

Not exactly the turbo's fault with the little 5's trying to blow out of that man.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what's considered responsive with -5's? 1 bar at 3600 rpm?

from memory my rb2630 with -10s made 1bar @ 3krpm, I'd need to dig it up as I posted my results in each gear on gtr UK forum
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not exactly the turbo's fault with the little 5's trying to blow out of that man.

Yea I no, the prob I had was I made up at 4inch system took it back to the dyno and only made 7kw more.

Im just saying -5 on something like your motor is crazy. It deserves a decent turbo. Gunna b awesome!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be bout same as mine as almost same set up , i think should change cam timing to what mine is :)

Next time your under the bonnet man, could u have a look at what yours are set at? Maybe take a pic?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next time your under the bonnet man, could u have a look at what yours are set at? Maybe take a pic?

Let me know when your back and i will meet you at Jez' s and we will have a look :cheers:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what's considered responsive with -5's? 1 bar at 3600 rpm?

You won't get that on a 2.6l unless it's fully loaded up :)

On the street it's around 4000-4200rpm in 3rd for a 2.6l if memory serves me correct

u are the first unhappy -5 customer I have heard...am I allowed to ask who is your tuner?

Add me to the list then for street/hill runs/motorkhana stuff the -5s are shithouse on a 2.6l

Cars was significantly faster with the smaller turbos coming on much faster in a on/off throttle scenario as -5s are lazy and need a stroker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting as I found my other gtr with -5s very responsive. That was a 2.6 as well.

What do u think is a good turbo for the application u refer to above?

Its not a loaded question- just like to hear your opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had GTSS, GTRS & -5's on a 2.6ltr (as well as -10s on a 26/30 which Paul has driven).

^ Absolutely you can comment on -9's back2back with -5's as you've had both...really is horses for courses though as I personally found GTSS's way too small (not sure how -9's compare to GTSS though)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it depends on the sort of driving you do. Guys that do the 'on/off/on' driving IE hillclimbs, skid pan work and track work will always favour the small stuff.

Steveo overlayed a 2.6 with SS's and my 2.8 with 5's and down low they were pretty much the same. Top end, well we know what happened.

2.6 with -5's is still lethargic, however peoples definitions of being lazy/lethargic/laggy are all different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...