Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lovely Doublely.

You will need to tell me when she is getting a tune so I can come and have a look.

What is the run in proceedure going to be ?

I ran mine in a bit on the dyno then finished it off at the drags, LOL

Lovely Doublely.

You will need to tell me when she is getting a tune so I can come and have a look.

What is the run in proceedure going to be ?

I ran mine in a bit on the dyno then finished it off at the drags, LOL

LOL

Trailer to dyno, throw it on.... let Yavuz do his thing, go and put some kms on it (400-500) then give the f**ker HEAPS!

Better crack 450 on those little baby -5's.... The the big sucker goes on!

engine036.jpg

Here is something interesting

Here I was stressing about valve to piston clearence with the 1.5mm OS valves. Now with a 0.9 mm head gasket (smallest I could find), squish of 29 thou and cams with over 10.8 mm of lift the clearence on the intake was 2.2 mm and OVER 3 mm on the exhaust. I could have not relieved them :( So much for Tomei's "Over 10.8 mm relieve the pistons" GRRRRRRRRRRRR

engine036.jpg

Here is something interesting

Here I was stressing about valve to piston clearence with the 1.5mm OS valves. Now with a 0.9 mm head gasket (smallest I could find), squish of 29 thou and cams with over 10.8 mm of lift the clearence on the intake was 2.2 mm and OVER 3 mm on the exhaust. I could have not relieved them :( So much for Tomei's "Over 10.8 mm relieve the pistons" GRRRRRRRRRRRR

Hey paul

Great to see the build coming together and yes that squish is all good long as its not below 28 thou . Wait and see the difference this will make.

Question what will be reving the motor too ? And what gearbox you going to have behind it?

Speak soon

  • Like 1

Bobby, the box is a OS 1-3 gearset with the big dick input shaft. It was behind the engine before. It got pulled down and put back together since. Nice box but really needs a stroker to work.... Orrrr have smaller turbos!

I can't see myself revving any harder than 8000 RPM. I found myself with the -5's changing at 6500 and just ride the torque. See where the power drops off but 8000 RPM will be the shift point with the hard cut set at 8600-8800 JUST so I don't hit it.

What harmonic balance is that and what is that gear set running behind it? Its almost a shame dropping that donk back in the engine bay...just look at it? Its a thing of beauty

It's a Ross balancer and the "tooth wheel" is a trigger wheel so the timing isn't taken from the CAS anymore.

Oh you never know what's gonna happen with cams ;).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
×
×
  • Create New...