Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Man I'm honestly thinking about getting it. What are your thoughts? Mine is a weekend warrior...and it's apparently not much more money than an R34 conversion.

What parts came with it? What else is needed? Will my nismo super coppermix twin plate clutch work or do I HAVE to swap to the OS giken unit?

Also do you need to run your stock transfer case or do they include one?

I think we are going to be similar power levels.

AWESOME video car looks super fun.

Man I'm honestly thinking about getting it. What are your thoughts? Mine is a weekend warrior...and it's apparently not much more money than an R34 conversion.

What parts came with it? What else is needed? Will my nismo super coppermix twin plate clutch work or do I HAVE to swap to the OS giken unit?

Also do you need to run your stock transfer case or do they include one?

I think we are going to be similar power levels.

AWESOME video car looks super fun.

It definitely changes the car from the tall geared OS 5 speed that I had in it. "Woke it up" as such.

You don't need to run the OS clutches, but it takes out one less headache when putting it all together. I looked into trying to salvage the coppermix as they really are THE clutch to have in a road going GTR. (Mine was in there since 2005 with no service/rebuild at all). It was all too hard. For starters the coppermix was a pull type, this box only has the bosses for a push type, then there was the bigger input shaft issue. The R3C is awesome, much better than expected and NOT how I remember the R3C in other cars I've driven. The pickup/friction point is quite low compared to the Coppermix which takes a bit of time to get used to. Apparently this is the new type. What they have changed, I'm not sure.

You will need to supply your own transfer case.

There are 4 gear options available. I went option 2. Assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and spinning to 8000 rpm each gear will go to

82

118

160

200

234 (same as stock as its 1:1)

310 (same as a factory 5 speed as its 0.757)

You're basically slotting an extra gear in before the 4th gear in a factory 5 speed box. If that makes sense.

With the box, I bought;

Box itself

Modified cross member

Bent shifter

Clutch

Release bearing

Clutch aligning tool

There is a bit of crashing and banging at low rpm, but that's just me not getting the timing 100%. I've only driven 60 kms or so with it so still very much a noob. Up high and drive it like its stolen, smooth as silk. Just slides into the next gear, you don't feel anything through the shifter. As quickly as you can pull back on the gear stick its in. I've found preloading the stick before you lift seems to work well too. I'm still clutching in ATM but as time goes on I'm sure I'll be able to do the no clutch/ lift throttle technique. I'm obviously not tuning a strain gauge - yet. I wouldn't like to daily drive it but for a weekend car it's great!

  • Like 1

Pretty much down the M4 and down Woodville Road at 6 ish PM. (I think you're a Sydney guy so you'll know what I'm talking about). It's all about timing. Going up is down a gear is tricky. The best way I have found is if you're in 4th basically stay in that gear till you come to the lights. As the revs drop to 1000 RPM just push the lever up a few times to either 1 or N depending on what the traffic is doing. No crunching or banging at all.

So much awesome

When you taking me for a spin

When I get this fuel system sorted. Not long after that video was taken it clogged the baskets up again. Full fuel system pull down required.

When I get this fuel system sorted. Not long after that video was taken it clogged the baskets up again. Full fuel system pull down required.

Damn that shit sucks man

You going to pull the tank out too or just flush it

The tank seems fine.

Not sure where it's coming from but it's fine enough to sneak through 23 micron filters.

6 micron filters are on order and changing ALL the lines. It's just not worth it.

Pretty much down the M4 and down Woodville Road at 6 ish PM. (I think you're a Sydney guy so you'll know what I'm talking about). It's all about timing. Going up is down a gear is tricky. The best way I have found is if you're in 4th basically stay in that gear till you come to the lights. As the revs drop to 1000 RPM just push the lever up a few times to either 1 or N depending on what the traffic is doing. No crunching or banging at all.

Sounds like fun, as soon as you have driven it for a while the muscle memory will kick in.

This should shave a few seconds off your times :yes:

Nice legs :wub:

The tank seems fine.

Not sure where it's coming from but it's fine enough to sneak through 23 micron filters.

6 micron filters are on order and changing ALL the lines. It's just not worth it.

Fingers crossed that sorts it

Check the surge see if it's not the issue

Pretty much down the M4 and down Woodville Road at 6 ish PM. (I think you're a Sydney guy so you'll know what I'm talking about). It's all about timing. Going up is down a gear is tricky. The best way I have found is if you're in 4th basically stay in that gear till you come to the lights. As the revs drop to 1000 RPM just push the lever up a few times to either 1 or N depending on what the traffic is doing. No crunching or banging at all.

I'm from Brisbane Qld, sorry for the question as I haven't read my os giken booklet. But once you engage reverse by pulling the lever up do you have to put the lever up again to go back to neutral or do you just push the lever down as you would when engage the next gears?
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...