Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used that shell oil you get in the red container...the one you see at servo's all the time - for my run in. ~$40bucks for 10L, you can't really go wrong.

Diesel oil would be fine, but the extra detergents wouldn't really be doing anything as the engine should already be sqeaky clean!!!!

Keen to see the results for this (re)build!

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Few things to do my ass.

Lol. I was at unigroup and saw what you brought there!!!!

PS: your front cam cover looks great!! :D

Haha. a lot of the things on the list is small stuff. I had to list them otherwise Tyson would forget!!

Yeah it turned out well. Very happy with it :D

Where is yours upto?

Penrite HPR30. It's loaded with the most zinc of any oil on the market, making it perfect for run-in of camshafts/bottom end etc.

That's what I've just put in mine!

Penrite HPR30

zinc - 0.11%

I just put this in ....Why wouldn't you use this ?

Penrite Running In Oil 15/40

zinc - 0.161%

Haha. a lot of the things on the list is small stuff. I had to list them otherwise Tyson would forget!!

Yeah it turned out well. Very happy with it :D

Where is yours upto?

I was pulling front diffs apart today... Bottom end is also ready for assembly.

Penrite HPR30

zinc - 0.11%

I just put this in ....Why wouldn't you use this ?

Penrite Running In Oil 15/40

zinc - 0.161%

I think that is what I ran, pen rite run in oil. Your engine builder should guide you on what oil to use for run in

Look at a radiator filter while your getting it ready, after my rebuild it caught a fair bit or sealants and other crap, even after the chemical clean it still collects bits of crud that would have other wise gone through the water pump and maybe got stuck in the radiator.

TEFBA Radiator / Cooling system Filters

Like dis > http://www.ebay.com....=item20bddab6b4

Disclaimer: The RB30 that went into my boat was probably 30 yrs old and no matter how much cleaning you get done it will not remove all the old broken down rusty crap that has had that time to build up inside its cooling system, which it seems, is quite alot.

P.S. Numbers Farkern

Look at a radiator filter while your getting it ready, after my rebuild it caught a fair bit or sealants and other crap, even after the chemical clean it still collects bits of crud that would have other wise gone through the water pump and maybe got stuck in the radiator.

TEFBA Radiator / Cooling system Filters

Like dis > http://www.ebay.com....=item20bddab6b4

I have one mate. I can't get the bloody thing open haha.

Going out tomorrow to see what the latest is. w00!

engine036.jpg

Here is something interesting

Here I was stressing about valve to piston clearence with the 1.5mm OS valves. Now with a 0.9 mm head gasket (smallest I could find), squish of 29 thou and cams with over 10.8 mm of lift the clearence on the intake was 2.2 mm and OVER 3 mm on the exhaust. I could have not relieved them :( So much for Tomei's "Over 10.8 mm relieve the pistons" GRRRRRRRRRRRR

Hi Piggaz,

just curious what your cam centerlines, lift and duration were set at for this

OK. I was out there today, all coming along. New oil cooler core and lines were going in. I changed the core because the old one would have been full of N1 oil pump gears!

I suspect startup and run in is Monday/Tuesday. I have some pics that I took today so i'll throw them up soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...