Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I used to love the old Dunlop W10 tyres from Japan as my most favourite tyres, they were awesome on my TME, but my new tyre of choice has to be the :

Toyo Proxes 4, it's absolutely wicked in the wet and dray, I'm on my second set now and I will keep on buying them as long as they are making them.

I have an M35 Axis and running the 245/40/18 as the rolling stock diameter differential is minimal, of a bonus is that it has a nice 97W load rating.

Just my view of course.

http://www.toyotires.com.au/all-tyres/proxes-4

I tirerack'd it.

For some reason Tirerack don't sell Nitto, otherwise that was my choice too.

The Hankook Ventus Rs3 are 140 wear rating, and they stick like shit to a blanket.

At that wear rating they would! Always a compromise - & almost always mutually exclusive - grip v's longevity. They'd have to be worth a look for a car that's tracked occasionally.

..but my new tyre of choice has to be the :

Toyo Proxes 4, it's absolutely wicked in the wet and dray, I'm on my second set now and I will keep on buying them as long as they are making them.

Yeah, they are great. I very nearly bought another set, but wanted to try something different for about the same price. On the M35 I expected the difference to be marginal, but... (read previous post).

I would always chose grip over longevity, tyres are the best performance/safety upgrade you can do.

The way I look at it is if the tyres last at least a year they are worth the money, no point in having a high performance car with sub standard tyres, and at around $800 a set fitted its a cheap performance upgrade, hell I spend more than that on buying 1 coffee every day during the year.

I would always chose grip over longevity, tyres are the best performance/safety upgrade you can do.

The way I look at it is if the tyres last at least a year they are worth the money, no point in having a high performance car with sub standard tyres, and at around $800 a set fitted its a cheap performance upgrade, hell I spend more than that on buying 1 coffee every day during the year.

Could not agree more with this. People go china spec on the only thing that holds the car to the road :rolleyes:

There are alternatives out there that have decent treadwear, and also have great grip- that was my point. RE040s were on a IS200. not exactly a ball of fire! But I don't think you would like to pay $1600 every 15,000 kms for the re040s on a daily.

$365 each? Surely a mistype!

520 is an unbelievably hard tyre mate.

Definitely a misprint...actually $265 per tyre.

Just calculated 28K so far with little apparent wear. I had them on my magna and got 70K out of a set. Didn't notice any decline in grip and even so with the Stagea.

Well I used to love the old Dunlop W10 tyres from Japan as my most favourite tyres, they were awesome on my TME, but my new tyre of choice has to be the :

Toyo Proxes 4, it's absolutely wicked in the wet and dray, I'm on my second set now and I will keep on buying them as long as they are making them.

I have an M35 Axis and running the 245/40/18 as the rolling stock diameter differential is minimal, of a bonus is that it has a nice 97W load rating.

Just my view of course.

http://www.toyotires...-tyres/proxes-4

Funny, they look very similar to one of the options that's been recommended to me: http://www.silverstone.com.my/default.aspx#1335014624625

They're also very cheap, and I've seen a well driven STi running them mix it with race cars on semis at a hillclimb.

Definitely worth spending money to get decent tyres, but I think as with most things you get to a point where there are negligible gains under normal road conditions.

Definitely worth spending money to get decent tyres, but I think as with most things you get to a point where there are negligible gains under normal road conditions.

^ that sums it up perfectly Ryan. You have a racecar that you want to get that last tenth? Spend what you can on the tyres. You have a road car that spends 95% of its time driving under 'normal' conditions - then the law of diminishing returns applies & you have to decide where to draw the line.

^ that sums it up perfectly Ryan. You have a racecar that you want to get that last tenth? Spend what you can on the tyres. You have a road car that spends 95% of its time driving under 'normal' conditions - then the law of diminishing returns applies & you have to decide where to draw the line.

100% disagree, on the track if you slide you usually just slide of the track, on the street you slide into gutters/people/cars/poles.

You can drive as safely as you like but when a kid runs out on the road infront of you, or a car losses it in front of you and you do some hard evasive driving you need grip, it will be then, when you are in the middle of a big slide straight at a telegraph pole that you will wish you spent that little bit extra on tyres.

It more of a case of how much is your life worth, ifs its not worth much buy some tyres that will last along time, but, if you feel your life is worth more than a set of sub standard tyres buy some that will actually give you some grip when you need it.

How many people get killed on the race track where they are going ten tenths compared to how many people die every day on the road going to work ?, driving on the road is the most dangerous thing most people do, the least you can do is ensure that the only thing that is in contact with the road and stopping you from having a accident is best you can afford.

The wreckers are full of nice cars with long lasting tyres.

Is your life worth less than the price of a 1 coffee per day?

100% disagree, on the track if you slide you usually just slide of the track, on the street you slide into gutters/people/cars/poles.

You can drive as safely as you like but when a kid runs out on the road infront of you, or a car losses it in front of you and you do some hard evasive driving you need grip, it will be then, when you are in the middle of a big slide straight at a telegraph pole that you will wish you spent that little bit extra on tyres.

It more of a case of how much is your life worth, ifs its not worth much buy some tyres that will last along time, but, if you feel your life is worth more than a set of sub standard tyres buy some that will actually give you some grip when you need it.

How many people get killed on the race track where they are going ten tenths compared to how many people die every day on the road going to work ?, driving on the road is the most dangerous thing most people do, the least you can do is ensure that the only thing that is in contact with the road and stopping you from having a accident is best you can afford.

The wreckers are full of nice cars with long lasting tyres.

Is your life worth less than the price of a 1 coffee per day?

It's interesting that you're arguing with the guy who has possibly the best performing tyres on his car...

I do agree with you, but; Leon's not saying " cheap it up", he's saying there's point that you're needlessly spending money. Does the car really need $800 a corner Pirelli P-Zero's or $500 a corner Continentals, when the mid range performance tyre is MILES better than what Joe Average is running and a hell of a lot better than the "budget" rubber.

Buy the best tyres you can afford, and you'll rarely go wrong.

I couldn't agree more with this though; The wreckers are full of nice cars with long lasting tyres.

I wasn't arguing, but I don't think safety should be considered somewhere you look at to save money.

What gets me ranting is I see so many cars with huge money spent on them but they cannot find the funds for quality tyres, I am not saying buy the best tyres on the market, I'm saying buy the best tyres on the market that you can afford.

What gets me ranting is I see so many cars with huge money spent on them but they cannot find the funds for quality tyres, I am not saying buy the best tyres on the market, I'm saying buy the best tyres on the market that you can afford.

With you there mate. Why spend $3-4k on wheels then put the cheapest chinese rubbish you can find on them?

I certainly started a hot topic here.....thank you to everyone invovled....great information and pointers outlined...

At this stage I do like all the reviews in reference to Nitto Invo....

I certainly started a hot topic here.....thank you to everyone invovled....great information and pointers outlined...

At this stage I do like all the reviews in reference to Nitto Invo....

WooHoo! I win! :nyaanyaa:

Seriously, I doubt I would have tried them if they were $100e more than I paid, & I saw heaps at a higher price. If you are like me, it all depends on what you can get for your money on the day. You won't go wrong with the Kumhos & certainly not those Hankooks mentioned earlier, but if the Invo's are available for close to $200 (or less) let me know & I'll buy another set for next time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...