Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use mine every 3rd night? not too bad. I just drop it at around 1700rpm, I don't bother driving it smooth (clutch will last longer). Up the car park ramp at my gym is gold, there's a speed hump midway up. I usually just handbrake then chirp it over, people think I am retarded.

Because race car :P

Sweet, thanks guys! More parts i didnt budget for...... Car has done 1500kms since tune and has killed coilovers and clutch so far, what next? (Nobody answer that, Flamin Mongrels) lol

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its no pig its a dream to drive man, you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its a dream to drive man you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class :D

Ah sweet! Thanks for that :D

Has it still got a good pedal feel etc? Apparently he said mine will be modified as ill aim for 400kw eventually.... :yes:

I slip my 10' NPC every time I take off, I know its not the best for the clutch but I'm 2 years in and its still showing no signs of slipping.

There a quality product thats for sure. I'll have a look at mine when the engine comes out of my car in the last half of this year.

Can always send it back for a rebuild anyway

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

LOL, i spoke to Jim for nearly 2 hours yesterday man!

He said they will be a pretty tough bit of gear, mine will be different specs to yours though as ill be on the road more than track :P

I got that Exedy Silver NC10T push pressure plate from a R32 GT-R if you want it, it's 1.1 tonnes

Problem is your GT-t is Pull not Push, unless you want to convert it to a push setup. Cheaper in the end.

  • 1 year later...

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

I pulled my NPC when I did my engine change out. decided to get it rebuilt rather then having to pull the gearbox out later on if it started slipping. Have to say, the clutch looked great, no marks/hot spots etc on the flywheel or pressure plate and the friction material, besides being worn, looked great. Best looking clutch I've ever pulled out of a car. Could have gone back in but was running low on friction material so thought I'd start fresh

They were very helpful and quick rebuilding the clutch to. Sent it away Thursday I think, had it back on Tuesday or wednesday.

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Mine should have been similar in design i guess and after 5000km it also looked brand new... I would go with Callans suggestion and just get a freshen up, its just new pads and a quick clean up most likely... Could be other causes for the premature wear though not necessarily the clutch itself, grease or oil contaminating it etc... Only way to know is to pull it out and have a squizz!

I ran 255rwkw for pretty much the whole time I had the clutch in, and I daily drive it and slip it on the street a fair bit. So I'd say if the wear on mine was excessive then it was to be expected. I dont think it was terribly worn but, should have measured how much material was left and compared to new.

The rebuild is basically a complete new clutch. The pressure plate I think was brand new and they just removed and replaced the pads on the clutch plate, must have checked the springs etc and the spline as well but this wasnt replaced (all looked good when I pulled it out so not suprised)

All up it cost me just shy of $500 with a new throwout bearing and express delivery, so while thats not 'cheap' its not to bad for a new clutch considering new ones are up near $800 now I think?

This is all my NPC gear reconditioned:

20131120_135325_zps0pnz4ghv.jpg

20131120_135331_zpsmrinauhs.jpg

20131120_135043_zpstlb27war.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

I'm just a little concerned about the premature wear, especially my car isn't make more than 200kW

Might pull out the box next weekend whilst I fit the new turbo :)

Yep good plan! There is no way its power related and it shouldnt wear that quick unless its been driven like shit...

Pull it out and report your findings :P

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Just copper mix it and be done with it. If you did it in the first place you would have to pull the box out again! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...