Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas yesterday I did an engine oil n filter change (used GW SYN-X 3000), i drained the oil out for like 15-20mins, there still was a constant tiny trickle out from the sump which is impossible to get rid of. Then I did the filter and topped up oil from the 5L bottle leaving like 100-200ml in the bottle. My dipstick shows fresh oil like 1-2 cm above the max mark.

Should i be worried n drain some out????

Engine oil press while driving is normal 2kg/cm sq and up to 6kg/cm sq when boosting hard..

run the engine for 30 seconds or so, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute and then check the oil level. if it is still well over the max level then you could drain a bit out. if it is about at the full mark then it isn't so much of a drama.

run the engine for 30 seconds or so, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute and then check the oil level. if it is still well over the max level then you could drain a bit out. if it is about at the full mark then it isn't so much of a drama.

Ok cheers dude will do that. )

i always put the full 5 litres in now, it always shit me wasting the tiny bit at the end

over filling slightly wont cause you any problems

i dont really see how over filling could cause any problem at all?

There is alot of space between the hot mark on the dipstick and the bottom of the crank on RB26s (room for about 1.5-2l of more oil), which is why we overfill to the hump. But when oil does hit the crank from, the crank whips it up like butter and it foams up, also creating crankhouse pressure which can blow the rear main.

dont overfill it to much, i poped the rear main seal on my r34 with the oil level at the hump (granted it may not have been the cause but its the only thing i can put it down to + shitty factory breather setup). n1's extra oil capacity is due to a factory oil cooler i think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...