Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol budget option:

NZ steampipe manifold < 400

Kando T67 w/billet wheel <1000 (comes with the bloody lines, v band ring and gaskets)

Tial 44

You should get *close* to the marker and have spent less than the outlay of a fancy turbo or manifold alone lol.

Is that as budget as your thinking?

Lol budget option:

NZ steampipe manifold < 400

Kando T67 w/billet wheel <1000 (comes with the bloody lines, v band ring and gaskets)

Tial 44

You should get *close* to the marker and have spent less than the outlay of a fancy turbo or manifold alone lol.

Is that as budget as your thinking?

A bit under actually!

Was thinking around $2k.

It will be hard to keep your package under 2k unless you look at a kando and that.

I doubt the difference between a T67 and a 3076 is going to be night and day. I would seriously consider the package I mentioned if you really want to keep costs that low.

Its a nice bit of kit. No kidding.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/

I found a good test on a comparison of a 3076R, 3582R, HTA 3076R, HTA 3582R and a PTE 5858 last night and bookmarked the link at home, just did a quick google and couldn't find it again but I'll post tonight if I remember...

The general gist was the HTA made tiny bit more power top end and a decent amount better response

Definately interested in this!

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=34852

I doubt the difference between a T67 and a 3076 is going to be night and day. I would seriously consider the package I mentioned if you really want to keep costs that low.

Cost vs performance is where the T67 wins, but I'm not convinced that they will be the same in performance - I "got into" the who turbo world when GReddy T67-25G and HKS GT3037 were direct competitors way back when, and generally speaking the HKS unit became something of a hero turbo... power numbers etc were often almost favouring the T67 (which is no doubt the better peak power unit) but in real world terms the HKS (/Garrett) unit tended to produce the quicker car, even in drag racing. Would love to drive the same car back to back with one of each though, to be sure as SimonR32s results look very very decent.

So in my head, in terms of ultimate "overall" performance at the level Bri73y is asking for I think its "middle of the road" of his options but easily the #1 in terms of cost, in a 1150kg car its lower response etc may well not be a problem at all.

The turbo I suspect FullRace will recommend (S200SX 7670) would be a very good performer, probably not the most expensive option but would be a good option - maybe more cost effective if not purchased as a full kit from FP. If cards could be played right in terms of fabrication etc I wouldn't be surprised if its the best value vs money, though results are thin on the ground so thats assuming the few positive results out there are realistic - I have definitely seen footage of a track EVO running one and it looked very impressive.

FP GT3076R HTA is still my favourite "ignoring cost" option, for if I were building a similar fast fun car to drive.

Once I get mine tuned with the poncams we will be able to have an almost direct comparison between a Kinugawa T67 and GT3076R as one with the exact same engine set up as mine (apart from the turbo) was tuned a few weeks ago :)

At the moment mine makes more top end (with more boost) but looses about 200-300rpm down low

Stay tuned, few weeks away from the tune being done

Edited by SimonR32

Nice, will be cool to see :) Same manifolds etc?

The reason I'd love to drive one myself is response, there was some interesting testing between two equivalent cars recently (stock engine, similar boost, similar weight) - one running a externally gated .63a/r GT3582R and the other an internally gated .82a/r GT3076R, both cars had almost identical spool on the dyno but the GT3582R setup made 20kw more in the top end. Real world testing proved the GT3076R car to be consistantly quicker (albeit not by a huge amount, just consistantly). Very interesting result, actually - had been one I'd always been interested to see as those two turbo combinations are a comparison which have come up in previous conversations I've been in, but all hypothetically.

Not idea if the same would be the case with a T67, ever experienced one myself - but I'd expect it to sit somewhere between a GT30R and GT35R in response.

Once I get mine tuned with the poncams we will be able to have an almost direct comparison between a Kinugawa T67 and GT3076R as one with the exact same engine set up as mine (apart from the turbo) was tuned a few weeks ago :)

At the moment mine makes more top end (with more boost) but looses about 200-300rpm down low

Stay tuned, few weeks away from the tune being done

Looking forward to this!!! Mine should go a tune next week too so there will be another 3076 to compare too but mine is likely to run a lower boost level that you guys....

Lith I did say the difference wouldnt be night and day, i dont doubt that the 3037 would be the better unit spool wise but for the price difference can you really complain?

Also re your last post, ive always said similar and even Stao has been saying the same about his highflow vs SS1PU. He notes that while they might plot the same on the dyno (at a given boost level) the SS1PU shines in its on road delivery. Like Ive always said power is one thing but delivery is king. This reminds me that you need to reply to my PM you slack ass, I wont be on MSN for a while as im running a pretty demanding regime at the minute.

Simon, so your saying that a poncammed 3037 (3076R) is plotting 300rpm better than your uncammed T67? Thats pretty awesome. Im keen to see the result once yours is cammed up (not to take away from my delivery is king comment LOL).

Yet I would like to see a 3037 run a bloody 11.03 :P

Nice, will be cool to see :) Same manifolds etc?

The reason I'd love to drive one myself is response, there was some interesting testing between two equivalent cars recently (stock engine, similar boost, similar weight) - one running a externally gated .63a/r GT3582R and the other an internally gated .82a/r GT3076R, both cars had almost identical spool on the dyno but the GT3582R setup made 20kw more in the top end. Real world testing proved the GT3076R car to be consistantly quicker (albeit not by a huge amount, just consistantly). Very interesting result, actually - had been one I'd always been interested to see as those two turbo combinations are a comparison which have come up in previous conversations I've been in, but all hypothetically.

Not idea if the same would be the case with a T67, ever experienced one myself - but I'd expect it to sit somewhere between a GT30R and GT35R in response.

Yes, both 6boobs manifolds

It's between a GT3076R and GT3582R but much closer to the GT3076R

Lith I did say the difference wouldnt be night and day, i dont doubt that the 3037 would be the better unit spool wise but for the price difference can you really complain?

Also re your last post, ive always said similar and even Stao has been saying the same about his highflow vs SS1PU. He notes that while they might plot the same on the dyno (at a given boost level) the SS1PU shines in its on road delivery. Like Ive always said power is one thing but delivery is king. This reminds me that you need to reply to my PM you slack ass, I wont be on MSN for a while as im running a pretty demanding regime at the minute.

Simon, so your saying that a poncammed 3037 (3076R) is plotting 300rpm better than your uncammed T67? Thats pretty awesome. Im keen to see the result once yours is cammed up (not to take away from my delivery is king comment LOL).

Yet I would like to see a 3037 run a bloody 11.03 :P

Yes, they overlayed the plots the other day to compare then said they were about 300rpm difference. As I said I'll get a proper comparison printed once mine is tuned with poncams/vipec

Yet I would like to see a 3037 run a bloody 11.03 :P

10.4 out of a full street car close enough? It did 11 flat at around 130mph on pump gas, too....

It's between a GT3076R and GT3582R but much closer to the GT3076R

Sweet, yeah thought that might be the case :)

As I said I'll get a proper comparison printed once mine is tuned with poncams/vipec

Very interested to see how that goes!

Lol budget option:

NZ steampipe manifold < 400

Kando T67 w/billet wheel <1000 (comes with the bloody lines, v band ring and gaskets)

Tial 44

That is a huge unknown. May be a good thing but I have not read of a single result of their billet wheels.

Once I get mine tuned with the poncams we will be able to have an almost direct comparison between a Kinugawa T67 ... Stay tuned, few weeks away from the tune being done

As others have said. Will be interesting. If you get the car tuned in NSW/WA you will gain response and power. Get it tuned in Vic you will lose response and make a handful more kws....I got no explanation for the vast differences people experience with cams other then it must be a lot to do with cams gears and how tuners tune?!?!?!

Haha billet is lighter because u can decrease the thickness more than the difference in density between cast and billet.

Some are heavier because they have 7/7 blades instead of 6/6 but they'll handle high boost more efficiently and generally flow more for same size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...