Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fs 1997 r33

173000ks have all recipts since i have owned the car plus some from previous owners serviced at 170000ks

mods :

g4 racing coilovers

jjr catback exhaust

fmic

turbosmart bov

genuine gtr wing

have stock exhaust and shocks to come with sale if needed

comes on 18" wheels

genuine gtr wing

starting price $8500

Mitsubishi Lancer, '00,

168xxx kms, AirCon, Power Steering, Automatic, CD/DVD/USB player (no screen), 17inch wheels with near new Federal Evo tyres.

Has a fair few bumps and scratches on the body from the previous owner but is mechanically good. Plates/rego are not included but should pass Roadworthy (can help out with rego).

$2700ono or a good box trailer + cash.

Lancer_zps676b6e21.jpg

GTR Wing $200

ECU $150

Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $150

Rear bar $100

CD player surround $100

Shifter surround $50

Centre console $100

Front seats (minor tear on bolster) $150

Rear seats $100

Boot hatch $100

Tail lights $200

Door windows $150 each

Window regs $150 each

Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

Coilovers $500

Engine $1000 (170,000 kms)

Diff $200

Rear adjustable camber arms $150

19" rims $1000

Turbosmart boost tee $70

Turbosmart boost guage $50

Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $100

Stock clutch $100

Flywheel $100

NISMO shift knob $50

Passenger front guard $100

Drive shaft $150

Starter motor $150

Alternator $100

Front and rear Brakes $400

Hubs $300

Prices are semi negotiable.

Hey guys, got my stagea up for sale so if you know anyone looking for their next import, please send them my way. Happy to work out some kind of reward for supplying a buyer.

post-57747-0-43216100-1368870929_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423732-1997-rs4-stagea-with-tasteful-mods/

Also selling a set of ADVAN RS wheels - 17x9.5+15 front and 18x10+25 rears.

post-57747-0-14041700-1368870753_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423983-advan-rs-17x95-18x10-wheels/

GTR Wing $200

ECU $150

Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $150

Rear bar $100

CD player surround $100

Shifter surround $50

Centre console $100

Front seats (minor tear on bolster) $150

Rear seats $100

Boot hatch $100

Tail lights $200

Door windows $150 each

Window regs $150 each

Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

Coilovers $500

Engine $1000 (170,000 kms)

Diff $200

Rear adjustable camber arms $150

19" rims $1000

Turbosmart boost tee $70

Turbosmart boost guage $50

Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $100

Stock clutch $100

Flywheel $100

NISMO shift knob $50

Passenger front guard $100

Drive shaft $150

Starter motor $150

Alternator $100

Front and rear Brakes $400

Hubs $300

Prices are semi negotiable.

More parts available

Coil packs $150

Rear Lower control arms $120

Rear cradle $100

Front lower control arms $120

Seat belts $150

Door cards $100

Window switches $100 (drivers side) $75 (passenger side)

Side mirrors $100 each

Steering surround $50

AC control unit $100

Window wipers $40 each

Fuel flap $75

Fuel cap $20

Bonnet latch $75

Boot latch $50

Power steering reservoir $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...