Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR cradle no hubs/brakes/diff or driveshafts. Has a HICAS lock bar and knuckles. $100

R32 GTR rear struts with king springs. One has damaged thread on top of the shock. $80

Still got the R32 GTR HKS Drag rear coilovers $300

FJ 720 do you still have the HICAS lock bar on the R32 rear cradle?

  • 2 weeks later...

K&N panel filter for RB26DETT part no. 33-2031-2. Used for approx. 20k. Includes new bottle of power kleen and almost new can of spray oil (only used once for initial light coat). $80 ono.

price drop $60

Walbro 400l fuel pump did less than 500km, come with wiring and new strainer $50

Rb30 fuel rail new with an6 and an8 fitting also to suit 14mm or 11mm injectors with adaptors all included $150

Rb25 candy blue rocker cover $250

Rb25 clear cam cover used still in good condition just needs a good clean $50

Rb25 head with stock cams stock valve spring etc but no valve seals or rocker covers $100

Rb30 head $100

Rb25 block with blown piston ring $100

Rb30 block $150

Rb25 S1 afm $50

Rb25 S1 Throttle body and throttle position sensor $60

Rb25 stock fuel rail with stock injectors $50

Rb25 injector loom $40

Wouldn't happen to have a decent condition rb30e harmonic balancer for r31 hanging around?

Walbro 400l fuel pump did less than 500km, come with wiring and new strainer $50

Rb30 fuel rail new with an6 and an8 fitting also to suit 14mm or 11mm injectors with adaptors all included $150

Rb25 candy blue rocker cover $250

Rb25 clear cam cover used still in good condition just needs a good clean $50

Rb25 head with stock cams stock valve spring etc but no valve seals or rocker covers $100

Rb30 head $100

Rb25 block with blown piston ring $100

Rb30 block $150

Rb25 S1 afm $50

Rb25 S1 Throttle body and throttle position sensor $60

Rb25 stock fuel rail with stock injectors $50

Rb25 injector loom $40

R31 RB30 harmonic balancer are normally single piece while VL RB30 harmonic balancer are two piece as Shiv pictured. However I have seen two piece on a R31 before.

The Rb30 engine i have came out of a R31

Can you post up a pick of the side of the thing, if I can see if it has ribbed belts or v-belts it will give me a better idea (my rb30 has ribbed)

post-72907-0-72546800-1454913682_thumb.jpg

post-72907-0-95061900-1454913743_thumb.jpg

Looks similar to mine except mine is a single piece (and, um, has a massive chunk missing out of it):

rb30e%20harmonic%20balancer.jpg[/url]

rb30e%20harmonic%20balancer2.jpg[/url]

Anyone know if these would be interchangeable?

The Rb30 engine i have came out of a R31

Edited by dorifticon

K&N panel filter for RB26DETT part no. 33-2031-2. Used for approx. 20k. Includes new bottle of power kleen and almost new can of spray oil (only used once for initial light coat). $80 ono.

bump make an offer guys
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...