Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good to see you on here again Andrew I'll vouch for you :)

Keep me in mind first for the Nismo Seat covers :thumbsup: 

I've been seeing your car nearly every day for a fortnight

Prices are good. You wont get a new front bar with N1 vents and lip for under $1000. So in that condition second hand is about right.

Edited by Sinista32
Update

Thanks Richard. Car should be off to Jerry's in a few weeks. 

Seat Covers are ready to go, I just need to work out what they're worth and will get onto that soon.

Been slammed with PM's for the bars and everything is sold (pending payment). 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2017-5-2 at 10:21 AM, Anfanee said:

Opening up an genuine EOI for Canberra people for the R. People that know my car should know what it's realistically worth. Genuinely interested parties feel free to message me. 

In true Anfanee fashion...... Would you take $50?

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

My turn again.... Posted this in the main for sale thread, but can't hurt to post it here, too:

R32GTR Seats and Genuine Nismo Seat Covers

I have my R32GTR seats up for sale. Hard to know what condition to describe them as, everyone's opinion is different, but I'd say very good condition for the drivers seats and whatever better than VGC is for the passenger seat. 

Drivers seat has the usual small tear and a small mark near the front centre (which looks like it'd come out easily). Can't see any marks on the passenger seat at all. But what you see in the pics is what you get (happy to provide additional pics if needed). If someone buys the seats on their own, they won't come with the centre trim in the head rest (you can see what I mean in the pics) because they've been re-trimmed to match the Nismo covers and they need to go with the Nismo covers. However, if someone ends up buying the covers separately and has the trim piece on their own R32 seats, then I'll ask for that as part of the sale and send it on to you when I get it. It's not ideal, but it's the best solution I can think of. Will also hang on to the seat belt clips as I need them for the new seats, but that's pretty standard.

I also have genuine Nismo seat covers (front and rear) which look amazing and are in as new condition (have only been on for a few thousand km's). They're of the fit and quality you'd expect from Nismo i.e. exceptional. 

I'd prefer to sell them together (seats and covers) for $1,800 but if you only want one or the other then the seats are $1,000 and the covers are $800.

Let me know if you have any questions. 

Andrew.imageproxy.php?img=&key=4b1e78680f916b86imageproxy.php?img=&key=4b1e78680f916b86

2.JPG

5.jpg

Nismo Rear.jpg

Nismo Fronts.jpg

Edited by Veilside R33
  • Like 1
On 5/2/2017 at 10:21 AM, Anfanee said:

Opening up an genuine EOI for Canberra people for the R. People that know my car should know what it's realistically worth. Genuinely interested parties feel free to message me. 

Will be asking $38,000 for her when i officially put her up for sale in the coming weeks. Giving ACT people the chance before i put it up properly. Again people knowing what work has gone into my car should know 38k is a bargain for what you are getting, so the price is pretty firm. If you know anyone or if you are genuinely interested PM me and i can give some details, otherwise you can check my build thread for an entire history on the car and what it has. The only swaps that will be considered will be for either a Ducati 848, Ducati 1198, or a BMW S1000RR/S1000R with heavy cash my way. No parts that are on my car will be removed before sale, what you see in the build thread you will get. It will also come with every spare i can find for it that i have removed. 

 

On 06/06/2017 at 0:38 PM, Anfanee said:

Will be asking $38,000 for her when i officially put her up for sale in the coming weeks. Giving ACT people the chance before i put it up properly. Again people knowing what work has gone into my car should know 38k is a bargain for what you are getting, so the price is pretty firm. If you know anyone or if you are genuinely interested PM me and i can give some details, otherwise you can check my build thread for an entire history on the car and what it has. The only swaps that will be considered will be for either a Ducati 848, Ducati 1198, or a BMW S1000RR/S1000R with heavy cash my way. No parts that are on my car will be removed before sale, what you see in the build thread you will get. It will also come with every spare i can find for it that i have removed. 

 

Dislike

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

1991 r31 skyline GXE for sale, wrecking - selling whole car.

NOTE: CAR IS DEREGISTERED and will need to be trailered away.  Cannot be driven.

The r31 has finally gone past the point of economical repair. 

Asking $200.

Would suit parts, some potentially useful bits:

-refreshed bottom end (at around 400,000 kms, replaced bearings, rings, cleaned pistons, honed bores, all seals and gaskets). Might suit someone looking to put together a cheap rb30/25 or replace the motor on tired r31.

-reconditioned SOHC cylinder head with not many k's put on it since installed.

-tow bar and tow ball

-4 serviceable tires on 4 dated but good condition auscar 5 spoke mags, 15"

-all complete and good condition glass

-headlights, stove-top tailights

-working condition automatic trans, still seems to function OK.

This is a complete car and the motor can be started and driven onto a trailer. Not sure what the precise issue was with the running of it, could be the old injectors, something to do with the ECU, who knows.

Best way to contact me is by phone, zero four 15 8 three 8 seven 90, and I can send some pics.

Will try to upload some pics on here if I get time.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...