Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fs 1997 r33

173000ks have all recipts since i have owned the car plus some from previous owners serviced at 170000ks

mods :

g4 racing coilovers

jjr catback exhaust

fmic

turbosmart bov

genuine gtr wing

have stock exhaust and shocks to come with sale if needed

comes on 18" wheels

genuine gtr wing

starting price $8500

Mitsubishi Lancer, '00,

168xxx kms, AirCon, Power Steering, Automatic, CD/DVD/USB player (no screen), 17inch wheels with near new Federal Evo tyres.

Has a fair few bumps and scratches on the body from the previous owner but is mechanically good. Plates/rego are not included but should pass Roadworthy (can help out with rego).

$2700ono or a good box trailer + cash.

Lancer_zps676b6e21.jpg

GTR Wing $200

ECU $150

Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $150

Rear bar $100

CD player surround $100

Shifter surround $50

Centre console $100

Front seats (minor tear on bolster) $150

Rear seats $100

Boot hatch $100

Tail lights $200

Door windows $150 each

Window regs $150 each

Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

Coilovers $500

Engine $1000 (170,000 kms)

Diff $200

Rear adjustable camber arms $150

19" rims $1000

Turbosmart boost tee $70

Turbosmart boost guage $50

Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $100

Stock clutch $100

Flywheel $100

NISMO shift knob $50

Passenger front guard $100

Drive shaft $150

Starter motor $150

Alternator $100

Front and rear Brakes $400

Hubs $300

Prices are semi negotiable.

Hey guys, got my stagea up for sale so if you know anyone looking for their next import, please send them my way. Happy to work out some kind of reward for supplying a buyer.

post-57747-0-43216100-1368870929_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423732-1997-rs4-stagea-with-tasteful-mods/

Also selling a set of ADVAN RS wheels - 17x9.5+15 front and 18x10+25 rears.

post-57747-0-14041700-1368870753_thumb.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423983-advan-rs-17x95-18x10-wheels/

GTR Wing $200

ECU $150

Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $150

Rear bar $100

CD player surround $100

Shifter surround $50

Centre console $100

Front seats (minor tear on bolster) $150

Rear seats $100

Boot hatch $100

Tail lights $200

Door windows $150 each

Window regs $150 each

Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

Coilovers $500

Engine $1000 (170,000 kms)

Diff $200

Rear adjustable camber arms $150

19" rims $1000

Turbosmart boost tee $70

Turbosmart boost guage $50

Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $100

Stock clutch $100

Flywheel $100

NISMO shift knob $50

Passenger front guard $100

Drive shaft $150

Starter motor $150

Alternator $100

Front and rear Brakes $400

Hubs $300

Prices are semi negotiable.

More parts available

Coil packs $150

Rear Lower control arms $120

Rear cradle $100

Front lower control arms $120

Seat belts $150

Door cards $100

Window switches $100 (drivers side) $75 (passenger side)

Side mirrors $100 each

Steering surround $50

AC control unit $100

Window wipers $40 each

Fuel flap $75

Fuel cap $20

Bonnet latch $75

Boot latch $50

Power steering reservoir $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...