Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

My car is currently at my tuners with a rather annoying problem... The car was there to be tuned after I fitted a Plazmaman intake plenum and 72mm throttle body, as well as ID1000's, HKS fuel rail, -6 braided fuel lines, Sard FPR etc. So it's undergone some pretty major modifications.

It also had some problems with the NIStune, so I bought a Link G4 plug in which has now been fitted and it is up and running and it seems that it only has the one problem left, in that it wants to rev itself to redline as soon as you start it. The boys have tried blocking off the IAC valve as well as the throttle body, but it is still doing it, so obviously there is a pretty major air leak somewhere. They are currently trying to find it by blocking off hoses etc, but I was hoping some brainstorming may be able to help.

The issue is, it's very hard to find an air leak when you can't start the car... We would try the smoke or throttle cleaner tests, but when the car is smashing limiter within a few seconds of starting, there isn't much one can do. So I just wanted to find out what sort of air leak could cause the car to do this? I mean, surely it takes a substantial amount of air to make the car rev so hard, so it wouldn't be just a small hose or something? We reused the upper plenum gasket when we installed the plenum as it was in perfect condition, but would a leaky plenum gasket do this? What else could leak such a large amount of air?

Thanks for any help, I understand it could really be anything and playing e-Mechanic probably isn't going to get much done, but I'm desperate at the moment...

Cheers,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400089-massive-air-leak/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Get a piece of stainless tube the same size as your pod fitting, weld one end shut, drill a hole in that end, and weld in a air compressor fitting.

Should take a fabricator about 10 mins.

Take off pod, install device, and then hook air compressor hose up.

Listen to air whistling out of somewhere with the car shut off.

Edited by The Mafia

Yeh I've tried a similar idea before when I had a vacuum leak, but found the whistling from the air compressor was way louder than the whisteling from any air leaks, so it didn't make it any easier to find.

Still worth a go though.

what mafia said, you want to regulate the pressure though, you dont want to be pumping 100psi into your intake. a valve from a car wheel/tyre works well and just pump it up like a car tyre.

if you cant find it with soapy water, try and get some smoke into the intake and see if you can see where its coming out from.

what mafia said, you want to regulate the pressure though, you dont want to be pumping 100psi into your intake. a valve from a car wheel/tyre works well and just pump it up like a car tyre.

if you cant find it with soapy water, try and get some smoke into the intake and see if you can see where its coming out from.

Yeh this is what I've got and tried in the past. I'll give it a go if the workshop can't find anything. Though I'm starting to think that for such a major leak to occur, it is most likely to be the new plenum not sealing, maybe I didn't get the plenum to sit flat on the runners properly :(

Thanks guys, I'll see what I can do.

That's not true, the new ECU was supposed to arrive today or tomorrow, but instead it arrived last Friday!! That's a win, right!?

Right?

Lol yeh, I'm very lucky my tuner doesn't want to charge me anything for the car being there for so long. It was only meant to be a quick retune, it's been there for a month now :/

hey i had the same problem when i did my Plazmaman plenum, you need to put gasket gue on both side of the plenum gasket and tighten the bolts i know its a bitch to get to lol it took me 3 hours to do them.

I wouldn't use Gasket goo on it, use Loctite 515 (also dont use much of it, only a thin 1mm bead) its a much better product for manifold type seals, atleast on the intake side of things.

Edited by 51NNA

I used one of the Loctite sealants, can't remember which one. The correct one for the application anyway.

It had nothing to do with anything like that lol.

Blue maxx? I used threebond on my intake manifold gasket, just a thin layer and has been all sweet so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...