Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry about the delay in getting these completed after the little tempter on Scotty's car.

As some of you may know; this is a copy of the OX Motortsport Chassis brace. Mine are TIG welded in Chromoly tube (as opposed to the alloy construction of the OX Motorsport version) and painted black.

The weight of these is almost identical to the Alloy version.

It really stiffens up the front end of the M35, allowing your suspension & swaybars to work their best.

It is a great value little mod, that is basically invisible once fitted.

It comes with all mounting hardware and can be fitted at home with basic hand tools in around 20 mins.

I have some completed, and waiting paint right now, and I'm asking $150 each; delivered anywhere in Australia. They'll be ready to go early next week.

Pics straight off the jig;

post-61153-0-32259300-1338781669_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-71556800-1338781717_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-73489600-1338781820_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-38782800-1338781747_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-35672600-1338781771_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-05764300-1338781794_thumb.jpg

There is another brace for the centre of the rear subframe, but it is extremely labour intensive to manufacture, and I'm not comfortable with the price what I'd need to charge to make it worthwhile.

If there is enough interest, I will also be manufacturing a brace for the rear mounting points of the rear crossmember, but this will be a little further down the track.

Let me know in this thread, or by PM if you would like one of these.

Also; A big thanks to both Iain for his generosity in loaning me the braces, and Craig for his assistance.

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401750-nm35-stagea-front-chassis-brace/
Share on other sites

guy's this is instantly noticeable........for those of you with stupidly firm BC suspension you may need to back off your shock rates a little.

It's my favourite upgrade other than the sway bars......it's basically the same improvement again.

MOOOORRRRREEEE G'SSSSSSS

Whew! Spent the whole day in the garage, giving my Ebay TIG welder a hiding!

All PM's replied, and people who requested PM's; check your inbox.

Thanks for your support everyone; I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Cheers, Dale.

Count me in. I'll be in for the rear crossmember brace too if you do one. Any possibility of a strut brace that fits around the raised plenum?

Anyone interested in a GB for the OX centre rear subframe bar if Dale isn't making them? Should be this one: http://www.oxmotorsports.co.jp/7_9.html

At current exchange rates they're ~$170 plus shipping. I guess getting the bends right is the big issue Dale?

Count me in. I'll be in for the rear crossmember brace too if you do one. Any possibility of a strut brace that fits around the raised plenum?

Anyone interested in a GB for the OX centre rear subframe bar if Dale isn't making them? Should be this one: http://www.oxmotorsp....co.jp/7_9.html

At current exchange rates they're ~$170 plus shipping. I guess getting the bends right is the big issue Dale?

Ok Ryan, you might have to wait a couple of weeks, as I've sold all eight that I have completed. The demand is more than I was expecting.

Yeah, the issue is putting quite tight bends in such thin wall tubing without collapsing the wall. To keep them light, I'm using 1.6mm wall CrMo tube; it's fearsomely stiff, so I have to lay a decent bit of heat into it to bend it without kinking. I've made a couple of dies for the bender, but I'm just not very happy with the result.

Ok Ryan, you might have to wait a couple of weeks, as I've sold all eight that I have completed. The demand is more than I was expecting.

Yeah, the issue is putting quite tight bends in such thin wall tubing without collapsing the wall. To keep them light, I'm using 1.6mm wall CrMo tube; it's fearsomely stiff, so I have to lay a decent bit of heat into it to bend it without kinking. I've made a couple of dies for the bender, but I'm just not very happy with the result.

No worries Dale, no mad panic.

Figures with the bends. Worth doing or should we look at OX?

Cool, thanks. I'll wait to hear from you on the others, and I'll see if anyone else is interested in the third bar.

Looking forward to another package expertly wrapped by your kids! :rofl2:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...