33 Rb26 Into 32 Gtst Questions

[LowgZ]

Hey guys,

So I have purchased a Series 3 Rb26dett from Blitz off this forum for my R32 Gtst and have a few questions mainly in regard to ECU and tuning.

As far as making life easy for my mechanic and tuner what it going to be the best ECU to use. Bearing in mind I'm not chasing and large numbers and will be content with just knowing the engine is safely tuned.

I live in the Gold Coast/ Brisbane region and have never had an aftermarket ECU so don't know any tuning places either if someone can suggest and ECU and tuner to go with it?

My mechanic did make mention of going a complete stand alone unit rather than a piggy back set up for ease of wiring is this the case and if so which units should I look at?

My last question would be apart from having the turbos rebuilt what other preventative maintenance would be good to undertake while the engine is out of the car excluding timing belt, tensioners, pumps? ( These will be done anyway )

Thanks in advance for your replies!!

[sydking]

Go with what your tunner like best...dosent matter what you get if he can't tume it well its pointless. Everyone here will tell ypu a differant ecu.

[XRATED]

Mate, keep it simple.

Make sure the engine is in good condition, replace all the consumables/service parts and do any work while the engine is out. I wouldn't go replacing the oil pump, just the externals.

I would pop a tomei baffle in the sum once you have modified it (removed front diff).

Have a look at haltech for ecu. Normally I'd say use the stock ecu with a nistune, but if you don't have the stock ecu or loom then starting from scratch would cost the same, install will be easier and you can loose the afm's and standard ign module.

Cheers

Justin

[LowgZ]

Sydking - Thanks I had thought that but I don't know any tuners in my area either so thought that I would put the question out.

XRATED - Thanks and good idea on the baffle I had not thought of that yet, do the R33 26's suffer from the same problems as the R32 26's with oil rushing to the head???

As for the Haltech suggestion that is what I had been considering, would the E11v2 be suitable for this application or should I throw the extra coin into the Platinum series..??

Thanks again for the responses.

Edited June 4, 2012 by LowgZ

[GTSBoy]

I can't understand the love for Haltechs on this forum.

I would choose Nistune over Haltech any day of the week, unless I was desperate for additional functionality that you can't get from the original ECU/Nistune. And even then, I'd still not choose Haltech.

My mechanic/tuner was only relating to me today yet another Haltech horror story about trying to tune a Supra with a Haltech. And Haltech's advice was to replace the ECU, on the basis that that whole range of ECU had a very poor reluctor system.

Even buying an RB26 ECU to start with is only going to add $150 to the price of the overall system.

The ViPEC / Link thingos seem to be reasonably popular without too many hateful reviews. You could look into that option.

[KiwiRS4T]

Get an RB26DETT ecu and loom and Nistune it. If your engine is basically stock then the base map should get you running and you will be able to look around for someone to tune it later if your local tuner can't

[LowgZ]

GTSboy - I hadnt read anything bad about the Haltechs and considering the price tag would assume they were a good unit thats interesting to hear. Will do some more investigation into alternate options as well.

KiwiRS4T - That was my original thought but after weighing up cost of parts, install & tune VS stand alone ECU, install & tune I decided after market was the way to go.

None the less thanks again for input all.

[XRATED]

Haltech are no more unreliable than any other aftermarket ecu. Most of the time it's the 'human' interface that causes the issues.... Hell Haltech are standard equipment in some low volume manufacture new cars!

By the time you buy a loom, retrofitt it to the gts-t, buy a stock ecu, afm's, sensors and nistune. An aftermarket ecu would be a better option.

Yes 33's have the same oiling issues as 32's. Oil in the rocker covers is a separate issue to oil surge that baffles can help avoid. Because you will have the sump off all ready, have your fabricator but a -10 fitting (then run a -10 hose into your catch can) on the intake side of the sump, above the oil level- this will help reduce the pressure build up in the sump that adds to the oil staying in the rocker covers. Also make sure the origional baffles/gauze are still installed in the rocker covers and vent the breathers into a well ventilated catch can. This as well as a sump baffle should stop most of your oiling issues.

As I said before, do as much as you can while the engine is out and apart.... It's ALOT harder to do in the car.

Cheers

Justin

[GTR260]

? for haltech, if u can afford it get a platinum series ecu!

If ur looking for a good tuner who is reasonable with price go see

Justin Simpson at horsepower soloutions at newman rd capallaba,

[mii11x]

I agree with sydking, i would go with what your tuner knows how to tune effectively. If he aint comfortable using the software/ hasnt used that particular ecu before etc, it could take him some time to figure out all the ins and outs which means $$$ spent on the dyno and his time cost also.

how did you go with the conversion to rear wheel drive out of curiousity ie converting the sump. i only ask cos i was going to do the same conversion last year but my mechanic/tuner recommended a 25 instead which is what i went for. interested to see the outcome.

while its all out id definitely be getting a timing belt kit (this includes the belt, tensioners, seals etc), depending of condition of rear main bearing seal id prob replace that too.

im assuming your replacing the clutch to suit??? remember if you cant replace a clutch yourself its prob bout 4 hours worth of labour you'll eventually pay for. if you replaced to s suitable clutch now while its all out you save time and money.

try do a cost comparison on rebuilding the turbos vs. upgraded. this should give you some idea whether it is more feasible to replace them now.

basically unless you cant do things like bolt on upgrades yourself, its more cost effective to have everything you would like done at once. if you can hold off for a few more weeks, months id be waiting, buying parts and getting everything done while the conversion is happeneing. its so much easier to work on an engine on the ground out of the car.

hoping all goes to plan with the rebuild mate and love to see the outcome

cheers

mick

Edited June 7, 2012 by mii11x

[LowgZ]

RATED - Thanks for all the info surrounding the oil issues ill make sure these are addressed prior to the engine going in, im not in a hurry with the build and just want things done once and properly hence all the questions.

GTR260 - Again thanks for the info ill give him a call and discuss options for tuning.

mii11x - In regard to the conversion my mechanic ( Ben @ 4wd & performance, Nerang ) has done a few and knows a workshop that manufacturers all the bits and pieces required for the sump modification so with that in mind I went with the 26 rather then the 25.

Yeah I was thinking of having a chat with Mr Turbo on the coast as well in regard to this dilemma as a decent set of twins will be around the $2500 mark but relistically I just want reliable, responsive turbos that can push 280kw on reasonable boost levels. Thats why I thought the rebuild kits to N1 specs would suffice.

As for the clutch this is definately getting done again though this is another conversation I need to chat to a specialist about as I dont know what the best clutch will be for the application.

Ill throw up a build thread shortly its just getting its front end straightened our so if any one has a 32 nose cut let me know I am in desperate need of one!!!

Thanks everyone for your input.