Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking for Brembo's for some time now but cannot find a good set off a 33 or 34 GTR to put on my GTS t.

I've noticed that Brombo's off Evo's are quite cheap, I'm assuming that they're smaller than GTR unit's but must be better than

standard GTSt brakes. Anyone out there have any experience with such a conversion?

Or have GTR brakes for sale?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402266-evo-brembos-on-skyline/
Share on other sites

The Evo F40 brembos will require Doglegs to fit them to your hubs unlike r33 brembos being a straight bolt on, the caliper design is slightly different overall size is slightly bigger being that the Evo use bigger rotors I assume but as far as braking force goes I'm pretty sure the pistons are of equal size to GTR brembos.

GTR brembos bolt onto most performance nissans of the same era whilst evo brembos dont bolt onto anything at all. evo brembos are much better though, and can cost around the same as GTR brembos. but be careful because the design of the adapters for evo brembos with the 320mm rotors aren't good:

http://www.ao-ps.com/techinfo/evobrembobrakesandadapterdesigns.php

  • 1 month later...

Evo 6s have brilliant brakes out of the box .

I'm very interested in the 350 conversion provided it goes in 17/8.5/30P Rays LMGT4s but I need to know what you do to correct the brake bias issue .

Mine is a non ABS R33 so the rear brakes would have to work harder or be upgraded as well .

What we REALLY need is a safe reliable rear brake upgrade and I suppose it needs to use the largest OE GTR discs to keep the hand brake mechanism as is . If that could be done with say std Evo 6-9 rear calipers that makes pad choices easy and in the same family .

A .

Thanks guys, will have a look for the thread, any reason GTR Brembo's cost $2000, and Evo Brembo's are $500????

Maybe cause Evo's that gravel rally throw 15's on and downgrade caliper size and you don't see gtr's rallying. My theory lol

Thanks guys, will have a look for the thread, any reason GTR Brembo's cost $2000, and Evo Brembo's are $500????

Purely demand and that's it really. You have to admit, EVO brakes are fking awesome.. they are massive!

Where was the thread that had the adapters etc? It had Evo 8-9 callipers with Evo 10 rotors i think? Looked the goods...... 350mm brakes at a bargain price, i would still be worried about having an adapter in tho :/

Some of the reason the brembos come up, they're susceptible to bad fade under extreme use on evos and aftermarket calipers for them offer bigger, thicker pad selection.

Won't be all that easy to tell, other than after installation - badly discoloured paint or burnt dust boots are giveaways though.....visible caliper flex and lousy pedal are usual symptoms if they've been overheated.

So , has anyone come up with a rear brake upgrade because big (350mm) front brakes are one thing but the back needs something better than standard to match . Evos don't have small rear brakes .

Also big rotors are going to weigh a bit and its all unsprung mass .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...