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I just spoke to Horsepower solutions at capalaba, he says it could be related to reversion in the intake pipe because the airflow meter is used by the power fc so thats what controls the idle? but he'd have to charge me a dyno fee to look at the tune, so $650

now that's rubbish, $650 to adjust the decel fuel cut? come on!

if you're game, play around with the deceleration fuel cut, I ran no BOV and had it set around 2700rpm and it was fine, no puffs, no idle issues, no farts or pops

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now that's rubbish, $650 to adjust the decel fuel cut? come on!

if you're game, play around with the deceleration fuel cut, I ran no BOV and had it set around 2700rpm and it was fine, no puffs, no idle issues, no farts or pops

well i told him the whole mods and situation etc, and he said he'd have to put it on the dyno and see whats going on, so thats a $650 dyno fee, cause he'll have to connect his laptop etc, i don know anything about decel fuel cuts, it doesnt pop or fart, it just shakes and feels like its going to stall and sometimes when given a bootful, i look in mirror and see a massive cloud of smoke, be fuel id say.

its funny how every so called expert has different views on things, MTQ guy just said my 555's were a bit small for 300kw and ill need a steel head gasket for over 1.2bar,

DVS is starting to look good lol

Edited by SliverS2

its funny how every so called expert has different views on things, MTQ guy just said my 555's were a bit small for 300kw and ill need a steel head gasket for over 1.2bar,

DVS is starting to look good lol

WTF? decompress a perfectly good motor for what? Seriously we don't live in carby days anymore. I'm waiting for my tax returns so I can do the complete opposite, raise the comp!

I had 450ccs making 250 on my car, with room to move. I also ran 1.4 bar because I can on a full bog stock motor with a few supporting mods.

Shops just want to make money, so they recommend things you don't need so they can make money. It's sad but true.

Ahhhh i just saw the mods you have in your Sig :) Yeah i had 550's and was told to go up due to the E85 and wanting over 300rwkw.... So the injector advise is probably OK

The head gasket, well it makes sense to do one if you NEED too, but look at the 300rwkw unopened thread.... Plenty surviving quite a long time without doing it....

$650 jeebus!

Bloody hell, I have been skinned a few times over the years but $650 for some basic diagnostic work is silly.

Don't worry, I paid some zub $340 on this forum to ruin my perfectly good tune back in the days where I had zero tuning knowledge. Turns out he was notorious for fcking up people's tunes.

Decompress god... are u serious far out they are in the stoneage up there.... give JEM a call in sydney just hdi my mate rb25 stock bottom end with your cams raise comp and made 344rwrk on 22 psi safe tune for drifting and its a weapon

WITH wheelspin during the run.... Dont forget that part! :P

And get your damn car to JEM!

Jesus stops reversion?

Just face the bov toward the compressor...

:laugh:

Actually, when i helped fit up an Apexi hardpipe to a mates car the low rev problems etc went away, and we thought it may have been due to the pipe being angled differently, but were only guessing!

we run a cross at the turbo end of the intake pipe, supposed to help with reversion, seems to work :rolleyes:

my old man thinks that because the airflow meter is 3inch and then the pipe goes 4inch that this will slow the air flow down and possibly stuff up the mixture at low engine speed? does this sound right ?

i just changed the pipe slightly so the end has another corner, i took for another flogging, i was getting a bar of boost in forth on 3600rpm so must be improving with adjusting the boost controller. :yes:

its just this crap idle and low speed, i listened to it under bonnet while reving and it sounds like its misses all thru revs,

I think ill just take you guys advice on the parts needed and take it to a tuner from here, seems the only way to be sure.

Do you have a wideband by any chance? see what you're A/F ratio is on idle..

Also, on your crossover pipe, there's a ~1 inch pipe that goes back into a valve into the plenum. See if that has leaks or has melted. Also see if your charcoal canister/fuel vapour collector vacuum hoses are all connected properly.

dont have a wideband, i checked the one inch pipe thats all fine, the canister doesnt have a pipe on the bottem but i blocked it with my hand and no difference,

how do you do the cross in pipe, weld some steel rods inside?

ok i dont think its reversion, i cut the stock intake pipe in half and clamped it to the airflow, so has all those little bends in it and alot longer too,

also this spark plug , does this look right?

DSC00889

Is it normal to have a vacumn from the rocker covers?

when i put my thumb on the pipe from the rocker covers it actually sucks my thumb into the pipe... i thought if anything there'd be blow by gases from this pipe..

could this be part of the problem?

On idle and cruising im pretty sure the blowby gets sucked back into the intake plenum through the PCV valve, as the plenum is in vacuum.

On boost the plenum will obviously not be in vaccum and thats when it goes out through the rocker cover breathers to catch can/plumbed back to intake pipe.

now that's rubbish, $650 to adjust the decel fuel cut? come on!

if you're game, play around with the deceleration fuel cut, I ran no BOV and had it set around 2700rpm and it was fine, no puffs, no idle issues, no farts or pops

Not really if its getting done properly and by $650 im assuming full retune, here's my thoughts on tune touch ups and why we dont do them.

We dont touch up other shops tunes full stop, a tune from us would be the same price $650. First thing we do is revert to default and work from scratch on EVERY car, we do this for two reasons ONE is to make sure each parameter is the way "I" like it and the SECOND reason is we dont want to take on the possible faults from the other tune which may cause it to come back (things like cold start etc).

That $650 is not just a tune charge but a goodwill charge which means we take on FULL responsibility for said tune... any cold start issues etc we will cover and not recharge to remedy if need be (rare but possible). Any engine mods done down the track get charged @ 150 P/hour,we can do this as we have a known good base to work from (most mods only take an hour or two at the most to tune for).

Theoretically if i was to "touch up a tune" and charge $150 to fix a idle issue many people then assume i have fixed the tune, this is not so.... what if these changes at operating temp make the car hard to start cold or hot or introduces a stumble... the customer comes back and complains and then i have to patch another part of the other tune... and so and so on it often snowballs as the underlying base is not right.... and the responsibility for the tune in the customers eyes falls on me even though ive only done the idle and relevant parts..

Not really if its getting done properly and by $650 im assuming full retune, here's my thoughts on tune touch ups and why we dont do them.

We dont touch up other shops tunes full stop, a tune from us would be the same price $650. First thing we do is revert to default and work from scratch on EVERY car, we do this for two reasons ONE is to make sure each parameter is the way "I" like it and the SECOND reason is we dont want to take on the possible faults from the other tune which may cause it to come back (things like cold start etc).

That $650 is not just a tune charge but a goodwill charge which means we take on FULL responsibility for said tune... any cold start issues etc we will cover and not recharge to remedy if need be (rare but possible). Any engine mods done down the track get charged @ 150 P/hour,we can do this as we have a known good base to work from (most mods only take an hour or two at the most to tune for).

Theoretically if i was to "touch up a tune" and charge $150 to fix a idle issue many people then assume i have fixed the tune, this is not so.... what if these changes at operating temp make the car hard to start cold or hot or introduces a stumble... the customer comes back and complains and then i have to patch another part of the other tune... and so and so on it often snowballs as the underlying base is not right.... and the responsibility for the tune in the customers eyes falls on me even though ive only done the idle and relevant parts..

Can you tell me what is normal with Tomei 256cams? people are saying they idle like stock but looking at 4 utube video's they idle the same as mine, and thats a long way from stock. The tuner showed me as he adjusted fuel mixtures from over 15.3:1 down to 14.5:1

tried different cells making them richer/leaner, so is this really about the tune or the Cams??????

can my cam timing be changed as in retard/advanced to help smooth this idle and low speed jolting?

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