Jump to content
SAU Community

Nm35 Turbo

Sidius

By Sidius,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Your "insult" is null and void considering your lemon of an attempt at Stagea ownership. With everything you fkd up on your old Stagea, having a go at me over the colour of my old Stagea is a pretty average effort, even by your standards :)

LolZ

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Your "insult" is null and void considering your lemon of an attempt at Stagea ownership. With everything you fkd up on your old Stagea, having a go at me over the colour of my old Stagea is a pretty average effort, even by your standards :)

Wow do you need some tampons for that vagina? Lol

Nice way to take a joke hahahahahahahaha

  • 11 months later...
Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

Going back through this thread makes me laugh.

Anyway to getting to the point of why i'm posting.

I received a M35 today at my house...I'm going to name drop(rosella) so that if you wish to PM him and ask him who he used you can.

To say that I have never been more disappointed at the workmanship on a car before is going to be a big call.....this shop went full Re t a r d!

Firstly I'd like to say that rosella has done nothing wrong but to trust the workshop and "qualified" mechanic's he gave his car to.

So To start off(and this only get worse)
1/ Missing bolt on the back of intake bracket
2/ Loose top suction pipe hose clamp
3/ Suction pipe top bolt finger tight
4/ Suction pipe bottom pipe over tensioned....new stud needed as it was all but snapped
5/ Heat shields overlapping heat shield bolts....I might also add that they were rounded as well.
6/ Cross threaded Actuator bolts into the turbo...re tap needed.
7/ O2 Sensor way over tightened(well at least something was tight)
8/ After loosening the 2 bottom dump pipe bolts the whole dump pipe was flapping in the wind. Further to this there was a nut and bolt at the top that should not have been used at temp....the reason that a bolt was used was because they had drilled the thread through on the turbo rather than retapping it.
9/ Water pipe from the top not bolted on
10/ Oil line bolt not bolted on
11/ Turbo to exhaust manifold studs bolted up with ceased bolts from the turbo to dump side.....all were loose/finger tight with the exception of 1 bolt.
12/ Old line Banjo bolt missing one washer.....so it was pissing out oil everywhere. They tried to fix this by dumping a shit load of gasket goo over it.....this was there full re t a r d moment.....and everyone knows you never go full re t a r d!!!

anyway rant finished.......now to get the turbo back in tomorrow if I can!

Edited by Jetwreck
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Wow.

Not a good job. At least we know its in good hands now. Disappointed From a place I thought better of too. However many have been stung by the first time M35 turbo job.

Edit.

I miss Sidius. This thread delivered.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I was very disappointed when I heard how this played out; I expect much better from professionals. Even after spending time speaking with the mechanic in question while the work was happening; it has ended badly.

There is nothing worse than paying good money, and trusting specialists with your pride & joy; only to have them abuse that trust & conduct themselves in such a deplorable manner.

There is no question that the individual who worked on this car did a disgraceful job, and should be absolutely ashamed of himself.

To then do even more substandard work, in an attempt to cover up the first lot; is simply unconscionable.

I actually found the missing banjo washer whilst I was helping Russel with another thing that they had left loose a couple of weeks ago.
Foolishly, I had hoped they'd used a new one; but no.

I hope once Rosella gets his car back from Craig, that he takes the photos of this mess to the owner of the business, and asks for an explanation.
He certainly deserves one.

As Alex has said; at least he can rest assured it is being done properly this time, and that the whole sordid business doesn't leave a sour taste in his mouth.

I and others have managed to do this exact job on our own cars, with no more of an advantage than these guys have; so the "but it's a hard car to work on" rubbish, doesn't wash with me even a little bit.

Also; Sidius was great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...