Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a heads up from Carbon Car Systems Blacktown; not just to anyone in Sydney but Australia-wide.

After the 1st of July, the W/s cost of air cond gasses will be going north by anything up to 600%.

If you were thinking of holding off until summer to regas your system, think again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403368-air-cond-regassing/
Share on other sites

So, previously, what was it, $70-100?

$600 to regas?

Portable aircon and an inverter would be less.

Can then also remove the aircon system, weight saving bonus.

Any reason Terry?

Govt making it harder due to hazzard?

The gas used by Skylines (and many other cars) is "R134A"

So when current stock of that is used up by your supplier Simon, the cost of a regas at the moment which might be say $95 will go up to around $150.

The breakdown of the above, is part labour - part gas cost.

There will be a different substitute refrigerant available in late 2013.

Cost to be advised...

Story's been on the news.

The Carbox Tax genius' have worked out it takes "X" tons of Co2 to make a Kg of refrigerant gas, so the gas industry has to pay.

Guess who picks up that tag.

Yeah...

Do you have any idea about the next new refrigerant yet "G", in regard to....

a) cost?

b) efficiency?

I received some word that it was going to be less efficient than R134A, but that's just heresay.

I'm out of touch with these new gases Terry, but next time I'm dead keen to try Hychill in the 32's older system.

Trouble seems to be finding a fridge tech. out in the sticks who's willing to give it a try.

However I can remember when R22 and R12 got shafted. Exposed commercial freezer units had their gas stolen and sold black market style.

I'm certain these crazy gas prices will start this practice all over again.

Ah thanks for clarification Terry.

Can anyone explain why we need to regas a closed system?

There's plenty of potential refrigerant leaks in any car's aircon system.

First off would be the shaft seal at the compresor. It's a carbon/carbon seal plus a conventional fla seal but over time it's going to leak.

This is why you're asked to run the aircon for a short time every day, to keep the carbon seal lubed and happy.

The seal has to hold static gas pressure (approx 75psi) when the syetem is at rest and then down into vacuum when the system is loaded.

Next are the flexible hoses at the compressor. They're swaged over a hose barb but any gas will still leak slightly.

And finally the gas will permeate through the actual hose material over time.

All removable connections are flare metal/metal or "O" ring and are very trouble free.

The compressor in your domestic fridge is inside a sealed unit, there's no flex/rubber hose and all pipe connections are silver soldered.

The refrigerant in one of those will be there until something mechanical fails.

Hi Guys,

After the 30th of June 2012 I would presume any refrigerant that is CO2 depleting will go up in price I would presume. This is because of the Carbon Tax.

I would also presume a lot of other industries that are emissions heavy will also be charging more for their services such as Transport etc.

Kind Regards,

Daniel

Carbon

There's plenty of potential refrigerant leaks in any car's aircon system.

First off would be the shaft seal at the compresor. It's a carbon/carbon seal plus a conventional fla seal but over time it's going to leak.

This is why you're asked to run the aircon for a short time every day, to keep the carbon seal lubed and happy.

The seal has to hold static gas pressure (approx 75psi) when the syetem is at rest and then down into vacuum when the system is loaded.

Next are the flexible hoses at the compressor. They're swaged over a hose barb but any gas will still leak slightly.

And finally the gas will permeate through the actual hose material over time.

All removable connections are flare metal/metal or "O" ring and are very trouble free.

The compressor in your domestic fridge is inside a sealed unit, there's no flex/rubber hose and all pipe connections are silver soldered.

The refrigerant in one of those will be there until something mechanical fails.

Thanks for the info.

I was never told to run it every day.

I will now though.

So are there any other gases we can use in aircon/refrigerator systems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...