Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It will be softer coming onto boost running just the actuator. Using a manual boost controller will see it come on a bit harder and gives you adjust ability

I honestly dont see why you don't just get one of those turbotech eBay boost controllers. Plenty of good reviews and its not expensive

Turbotech is crap from my experience. Go with the stronger actuator, you wont get defected for it (paint it black) and it will give you a much better outcome.

If you are good with your hands you will be able to make a bracket to suit, take some pictures if you get the Kinugawa as i'm sure more people will be heading down this path soon. ;)

Turbotech is crap from my experience. ;)

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

I had the original turbotech and it seemed OK...

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

Perhaps on rb's and with hd actuators fitted already? I found the bleed hole was way too big. They are nothing on a HD actuator though, especially if the manifold pressure is getting up there, as it just blows the puck open.

The Turbosmart one seemed a little better to me, (smaller bleed hole) but a good electronic boost controller gave a noticeable gain. Personally I would run both a HD actuator and a good EBC.

Here is the info on the actuator. Just for anyones info if they are looking to do the same. I have ordered mine.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280892958327?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Yep, and use new hose. Take some pics for us on the fitment and quality, I was interested in these actuators myself as I want to modify it for a push and pull setup.

Make sure you check it doesn't overboost before you get on it hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...