Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well - don't get me wrong. I am very very happy to be told its nothing to do with it and find another reason for it.

As I said above, Ross is a good bloke to deal with, its good to buy Aussie, RIPS uses them too - and I still do have mine - so I am all for it NOT being anything to do with the balancer.

But when Piggaz started throwing belts and so did I, especially when I wasn't before hand - it raised alarm bells. Now ABR33.

So I felt it was worth mentioning - just in case. Lets hope we can find the real reason though.

Yea for sure mate,defintaly worth the mention, and i can imagine its rather annoying that the blet keeps getting thrown. Hopefully you can sort the problem soon and report back with exactly why its happening (ross balancer or not)

How much power are you making by the way?

in the mean time you should get one of those idlers for the belt, not too expensive i imagine and fairly easy to fit.

about ur timing belt slipping... that is very strange

But can anyone explain why i was doing flat out runs down an airstrip for 30 mins, and drifting around each turning end, and after doing the same thing after doing it 20 times already it comes off? done nothing different.

One thing I can say is the belt is quite old and shitty, could it be poor strength belts allowing stretch?

Has anyone thrown a gates racing belt? seem to be tougher..

Yea for sure mate,defintaly worth the mention, and i can imagine its rather annoying that the blet keeps getting thrown. Hopefully you can sort the problem soon and report back with exactly why its happening (ross balancer or not)

How much power are you making by the way?

in the mean time you should get one of those idlers for the belt, not too expensive i imagine and fairly easy to fit.

about ur timing belt slipping... that is very strange

yeah got the idler kit Joey - it did help - how could it not - but we noticed the belt still tried to walk up the back of the damper. Plus I want to know why my ATI ran without an idler and never had the issue. Remember this was the ONLY change. And hence why I was suss about it. As Ross pointed out though, RB26 Power Steering pumps often seem to be a little on the piss, hence we went to some effort to replace the bracket - face it and line it all up with a laser. Fat lot of good that did me though.. I am almost wondering if something has happened to the crank nose during changing them or something - makes no sense.

My car is only a baby in RB30 terms mate. 20psi - 350rwkw. Spins too 7200rpm - soft limiter courtesy Motec. Plus I drive like a pussy according to Gav. So I'm not bouncing off a 9krpm limiter or anything.

Frustrating doing power steering belts and then burning the crap out of yourself changing them between runs at an event. And one of them coming off decided to tear into my Spal Thermo wiring... grrrr...

What issues do people have with stock gtr ballancers that makes them change to ross?

Nissan would have spent alot of time/money designing these to work reliably on their engines, gtr stock rev limit is over 8000rpm.

Ive never had or seen a power steer belt spit off using stock ballancer.

What issues do people have with stock gtr ballancers that makes them change to ross?

Nissan would have spent alot of time/money designing these to work reliably on their engines, gtr stock rev limit is over 8000rpm.

Ive never had or seen a power steer belt spit off using stock ballancer.

They get worn out over time and I imagine Nissan charge a mint to buy another one.. Other wise yea they are probably the best one you can buy

(Quote R32 TT )

My car is only a baby in RB30 terms mate. 20psi - 350rwkw. Spins too 7200rpm - soft limiter courtesy Motec. Plus I drive like a pussy according to Gav. So I'm not bouncing off a 9krpm limiter or anything.

Can confirm, drives like a pussy :rofl2:

Don't think its the same issue ( but I'll put it out there ), I've spat a couple of P/S belts with an ATI balancer, but only at 8500rpm and over 200kph, think there is enough flex in the clutch fan to just clip the belt..

Not the same issue as you Matt, obviously as you have electric/thermos, from memory.. but could be worth looking at for others.

(Quote R32 TT )

My car is only a baby in RB30 terms mate. 20psi - 350rwkw. Spins too 7200rpm - soft limiter courtesy Motec. Plus I drive like a pussy according to Gav. So I'm not bouncing off a 9krpm limiter or anything.

Can confirm, drives like a pussy :rofl2:

Don't think its the same issue ( but I'll put it out there ), I've spat a couple of P/S belts with an ATI balancer, but only at 8500rpm and over 200kph, think there is enough flex in the clutch fan to just clip the belt..

Not the same issue as you Matt, obviously as you have electric/thermos, from memory.. but could be worth looking at for others.

This is interesting, my fan tips have tiny tiny rub marks on them. I was going well in excess of 200km/h too. Not sure if that done it though I think it came off when i was in second though...

the factory fan flexes that much....?? so your was mainly due to the RPM ?

can't be sure on either case.. there was black marks on the fan but don't know if that was the cause or the result of the belt shredding? but the fan does have quite a bit of flex ?

and both times its happened to me was at the track or an event at over 8000rpm in 4th, so 220kph+ ..?

when its not spinning, the fan tips are only about 10mm from the P/S belt.. ?? but I've only done 2 belts in about 4 years so I don't know that this is related to the Ross balancer issue ( if there is one )

Torque figures above look right but I'd have to check my book. GTR would be tighter due to the metric superfine thread it uses (18x1.5) and the fact it's an 18mm bolt instead of a 16mm bolt in the 'lesser' models.

Remember boys and girls, it's all about correct tension, not lots of tension.

That 18mm bolt is definitely doing to need that much torque to apply the correct stretch to give it the exact preload it needs to never come off.

I've seen too many come loose recently....but come to think of it....all GTRs

Answering a question above about why replace the stock balancer - It's simple. Because they are shit

When they were brand new they were awesome. 20 years later.....shit

If you could pick only 3 things to modify in the engine of a GTR to make it near bulletproof at 600-800hp it's : 1. Rod bolts 2. Billet oil pump gear 3. Good aftermarket harmonic balancer

We have proven it many many times. Although given the choice, everyone knows my decision on stock rods

So the question on everyones lips (or mine) is what exactly makes them shit?

I can understand that newer designs/materials etc could make a better one - hence why I bought an ATI in the first place, but I am interested in why you say that - how does one 'measure' how well one damper is compared to another without some pretty special equipment?

ie something in your experience must have lead you to this?

(Quote R32 TT )

My car is only a baby in RB30 terms mate. 20psi - 350rwkw. Spins too 7200rpm - soft limiter courtesy Motec. Plus I drive like a pussy according to Gav. So I'm not bouncing off a 9krpm limiter or anything.

Can confirm, drives like a pussy :rofl2:

...you know.... that hurts a little. I brought it on myself, but still.. where's the love.

They get worn out over time and I imagine Nissan charge a mint to buy another one.. Other wise yea they are probably the best one you can buy

0

my mechanic just got me a new r34 balancer through nissan for just over 400 buks... Cheaper then aftermarket

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...