Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26/rb30 Conrod Choices......

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
Posted

I am in the middle of buying/building my new RB26/RB30 swap in my S14 here in the States. I have been researching the conrod issue and I have a few questions for everyone here. I feel that I have beat myself up researching this and I just want all of your opinions since real world experiences are more important to me than the different companies marketing techniques. I am looking for around 800 AWHP, give or take a few HP.

I have narrowed it down to a few decent choices, knowingly staying away from the Chinese copies such as Manley, Spool (which appear to be ok) etc. So I have found the following, in no absolute order.

1) Pauter X-Beam Rods

2) NITTO I-Beam Rods

3) Argo I-Beam Rods

I know that all of these choices have the +'s and -'s, but I need your help with this. The Pauters come available (for an extra $45.00 a rod) with wrist pin oiling internally through the rod. The NITTOs supposedly have a jet near the main that squirts oil to the bottom of the piston, mimicing a block oil squirter. And the Argos speak for themselves with the RIPS boys.

So with cost set aside (since the rods are an important part of a longer stroke engine with higher RPM ranges) what rods do you recommend? No TItanium recommendations please, I don't have $6000+ for only rods.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403853-rb26rb30-conrod-choices/
Share on other sites
Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

argo carrillo spool etc all decent rods, but i wouldnt put them in an rb30,

rb30 doesnt have block mounted oil squirters,

the oil squirter makes sure the oil reaches the bottom of the piston, which keeps it cooler, less detonation, less f**king around taking the timing out to loose power to prevent it detonating

without the oil squirter in the rod it will seep out towards the radius/ counterweights and will spray but will randomly touch the bore and bottom of piston skirt

rb30 STD & Nitto rods have oil squirters in the big ends of rods - thus the reason i only recommend the standard with up graded ARP bolts or Nitto H beam or I beam rods

(if you or anyone else knows of any other brands that have the oil squirter in the rb30 big ends then please post them up)

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Alot of them have the notch on the conrod side faces to direct the spraying oil up the bore and onto the piston/small end area. But then again alot of engines dont have oil squirters and dont have issues. No doubt a buttload of rb30's running around without oil squirters and dont have det issues either.

Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted

H beams have the "valley" to guide the oil, but how does the oil get there?

The notches your talking of are on the sides right?

And im not talking about detonation consistently, my car plain H beams, tuned, bad batch of fuel detonated, rebuilt, coated pistons drilled 1.5mm hole in rod in line with bearing, tuner said he had more timing to play with, more chance of a better result

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Yeh the conrod side faces. Same trick used by honda f1 back in the turbo era.

Argo I beam rods have the notches in the sides to direct oil up towards the bore.

Im not disputing what you are saying. Just saying there are alot of people with no oil squirters who dont even realise the difference, and there are people who do and dont realise the difference. Maybe in your NA engine it is more pronounced.

  • 2 weeks later...
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Ive used spool rods in several 700hp+ rb30s with no problems.

They now have oils squirters also.

Good to hear........I was looking at their kits and what you get for $2K is pretty good value esp. for a streeter.

  • 1 month later...
harks Collaborator

harks

Posted
Posted

Does anyone else have exp with spool? Ive heard some very positive results, but alot of negative also... generally with negative comments its always the 'cheap chinese imposter' with no foundation or reason for the remarks

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...