Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes I get the feeling that Pilot Preceda 2s were not their high end tyre and more a slightly upmarket all rounder . Having said that they are pretty good all rounders and real good in the wet . If I go looking for 255 40s I'll probably start with Pilot Sport 2s .

A .

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It already has pinapples in it , the full Sk Whiteline Bilstein kit not just the struts and springs .

Just thinking hard ATM about the full GTR rear end set meaning dampers uprights etc etc to the diff center . I know a few people here have done this and probably the only new bits would be the Bilsteins with the "fork" mounts .

Can someone tell me roughly what an R33 GTRs rear end bits cost second hand - meaning diff stubs shafts uprights and hubs ? Probably need lower control arms too to make it easy . The other question is do the RWD LCAs have aftermarket bushes in Whitelines kit and if so can they be reused ?

I'm going to look in the DIY/Tutorial section to see if anyones done this conversion to a RWD R33 and posted pics , cheers A .

Sorry one more , Gary tells me some R32GTSTs had clutch LSDs in them . Do their stub shafts suit GTS25Ts half shafts or do they have 3x2 bolt flanges like Silvias ?

It already has pinapples in it , the full Sk Whiteline Bilstein kit not just the struts and springs .

Just thinking hard ATM about the full GTR rear end set meaning dampers uprights etc etc to the diff center . I know a few people here have done this and probably the only new bits would be the Bilsteins with the "fork" mounts .

Can someone tell me roughly what an R33 GTRs rear end bits cost second hand - meaning diff stubs shafts uprights and hubs ? Probably need lower control arms too to make it easy . The other question is do the RWD LCAs have aftermarket bushes in Whitelines kit and if so can they be reused ?

I'm going to look in the DIY/Tutorial section to see if anyones done this conversion to a RWD R33 and posted pics , cheers A .

Sorry one more , Gary tells me some R32GTSTs had clutch LSDs in them . Do their stub shafts suit GTS25Ts half shafts or do they have 3x2 bolt flanges like Silvias ?

Disco you are going the hard way about it. Alignment first. Replace 5 yr old tyres second.

I figure its going to cost me tyres and a clutch plate LSD .

Andrew I think for the costs involved may as well have a factory CLSD and doing that means hanging the 30 spline axles and matching 6 bolt shafts off it .

Really the only down side is replacing dampers that aren't worn out . It would need a wheel alignment anyway so thats just part of it .

A .

you really don't listen do you? :yes:

Spend $60 on a wheel alignment, try to get the guy to run minimal negative camber and replace your dinosaur tyres. I kid you not, I made more power than you and held it flat on the ground with cheap Kumho KU31 255/40/17 tyres

In Sydney, I bring it to BT Motorsports in Fairfield, they're also a Bridgestone Select dealer (what ever that means). They will let you go into their workshop and show you what they're doing on your car. You can also tell them what you want dialed in.

Good job + print out and they will point out any problems/issues unlike most other places. I think they have a liking for Nissans too, last time I was there, they had a nice looking GT-R in the shop with a blown gearbox, I told them to hop onto SAU as there was someone selling a sequential box.

Can't remember the dude I spoke to, but the car drove heaps better afterwards too.

I understand the one wheel concept, Just wondering if it will have trouble putting the power to the ground. seeing as its over a 200KW jump in power, On the same diff ;/

Ever seen a VN Commodore single wheel up the road with only 120rwkW? Well, it'll be twice as bad as that.

mabey a little OT, But would a car have much dramas, Traction wise mainly with putting 300+ kw through stock open diff, Or what ever the NA has?

I had 311rwkw with a stock gtst diff (single pegger at that power level) for about a week while my diff was in transit...

doing 100+ you would crabwalk as soon as you floored it.

I run 235/40/18 bridgestone potenzas inflated to 40psi on +38 (shit)offset RAYS Volk lightweight wheels, stock diff I think, and a measly 200rwkw. The car came with Cusco adjustable suspension which is too hard for my liking, and is lowered to ok height.

I spin first easy and second spins a fair bit too when giving it some stick driving straight, it usually side steps, I never LAUNCH. I would really like to avoid this spinning and sidestepping, I think I'm running too much tyre pressure, too skinny tyres with bad offset and a hard suspension, maybe get some pineapples, would like to soften er up...hmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...