Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I'm thinking of replacing all the interior roof and map lights with LED version but looking on eBay there are too many options to know what actually works and what doesn't.

I'm after a nice white light , not blueish, and as bright or brighter than the current 10w globes.

So if you have tried some with success let me know what type and where you got them.

Thanks guys.

I'm also in the middle of fitting factory option courtesy lights to the bottom of the front doors. Once finished I'll do a write up for those wanting to add some to their M35. Just waiting for one of the lights to arrive from back order.

Edited by slippylotion

I've replaced my main lights (not map yet) with SMD lights and they seem bluish (even though advertised as white)...

I'll measure them up as the first time around bulb was too long and didn't fit.

Adrian

Super keen to see that write up, was thinking of a similar thing like the Lexus have. When you unlock the door the interior and lights on the side mirrors turn on.... I just don't know which wire to tap into??

Edited by adey88

The M35 already turns on the interior lights when you unlock the car and slowly dims them to off when you turn the ignition on.

These are the courtesy lights Im fitting. These courtesy lights will light up the ground when you open the door so the misses can see if she's about to step into a puddle or mud in the gutter when getting out at night. Around $15 each from Nissan. Pics courtesy of Eugene the Russian.

Edited by slippylotion

I've just put the LEDs in my map lights and I'm not particularly happy. Bit of a rush job and need to pull them out again, but you'll be able to see what they look like.

I need to replace mine, too. One of my map lights is dead, the other is useless because it's too dim, and I was going to change the main centre one to keep it consistent.

I think I'm just going to go to JayCar.

ive tried this before and was never really happy with it. switched back to filament bulbs.

all those $1 ebay "pure white" led's look blueish, and dont emit much light. as a boot light, useless. you could get "warm white" colour which is closer to the original bulbs, or find a bulb with around 5000 lumens rating for more of an office fluoro light colour

you want to find "cree l.e.d's" . these draw more power than a regular led or smd, but are far brighter (pretty much the same as an iphone 4 flash and some are brighter). they are usually rated at 2 watts each (which is 1/5th the current draw of a 10w filament bulb but with brighter light). the problem is: theyre not cheap.

i know a guy who bought 10x 2 metre lengths of those ebay LED strips, stuck them to the roof lining of his work van, powered from the roof light.... that setup was effective! not as bright as the jaycar strip led's but much much cheaper

Edited by Deep Dish V35

I replaced all my interior bulbs with LEDs. I'm sure they were 'warm' ones as they don't look very blue when on. I have some left over if you want them.

I also bought 6 strips of LEDs and put 1 each in the front footwells & under each front seat. I am very happy with that mod, especially since everything in my car is black on black.

The other 2 fitted neatly in the top sides of the grab rails in the back. Feel up there & you will see 2 narrow channels. The strips pushed firmly into one channel on each side & I ran the wires to the middle light so when it comes on the sides do as well. Now I can see a bit more in the back :)

Also, if anyone wants CREE LEDs, of any particular colour, I have heaps of different ones. I had to place a minimum order with a supplier & made up the difference with an assortment.

Oh, & I also put a single, high intensity, blue LED in the centre of the map lights - inset so not visible unless you look right up underneath it.. It comes on when the parking lights are on, but I can turn it off separately. It adds a nice ambience when night driving, although any more could be considered 'rice', lol.

Those courtesy lights look really good Paul (good onya Eugene!) What did they cost from Nissan?

Edited by Commsman

The M35 already turns on the interior lights when you unlock the car and slowly dims them to off when you turn the ignition on.

These are the courtesy lights Im fitting. These courtesy lights will light up the ground when you open the door so the misses can see if she's about to step into a puddle or mud in the gutter when getting out at night. Around $15 each from Nissan. Pics courtesy of Eugene the Russian.

I had a look at this the other day, but couldn't see any extra wiring provided for the under door light. Where are you getting the 12v supply from? wing mirrors? would be interesting.

The power for the drivers door light is taken from the power window switch. There are two white wires, the thicker wire is constant 12v and I ran the earth wire on both door lights to the door trigger switcher on the pillar. The passenger door has no constant power so I took that from under the drivers side dash.

It should be finished tomorrow when I pick up the lights, I'll do a write up hopefully tomorrow.

I changed my interior lights (minus the map lights) to white LED, if i remember right, used the 1 SMD LED from my usual ebay guy. definitely bright white not warm white or bluish white. this was my spares for my old civic interior light.

will take pics tomorrow nite if i remember to do it.

I have led lights in my car they could be a bit brighter but they do the job. Also I had these leds from when I got the car. Someone in Japan thought they were tricky. They look cool at night

post-52024-0-18481500-1342643917_thumb.jpg

I've got these in the centre and rear (cargo) interior lights.

http://www.dealextre...ht-dc-12v-73309

They're a pleasant warm white and are much brighter than the standard globes.

I have them in both my cars for over 9 months and haven't had any problems at all.

I've put these Aerpro ones in my dome lamps and they're great. Model number SMD85W. I think they were about $30 each.

7603840868_7bdf18744a.jpg

Here they are in my Stag. Not the best photo given it is day, but they don't appear blue and the light output is great especially given the mostly black interior. I reckon they are brighter than the original globes. I just need to get the map lights with the door switch so they come on with the dome lamps as well because the main lamp is positioned further back than normal due to the sunroof.

7603812578_57c69179ac_b.jpg

Cheers.

I guess from the majority of people's experiences I'll stick to the standard globes.

Paul, PM me your address & I'll post you a couple of the bayonet LEDs to try in your car.

  • 2 years later...

Take your old ones out, go to Jaycar (or your nearest equivalent store) and ask for replacements the same size. That's what I did.

Just remember that they are (all?) polarity-sensitive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...