Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the best fix gents, geezer I know has a cross threaded spark plug which may be causing a miss fire, it's on the 6th cylinder so it's a pain int the arse to get too, but can this be tapped or re plugged?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405141-cross-threaded-spark-plug-hole/
Share on other sites

Just do what you did in europe then

tools are in Europe hence why he need's somewhere who can do it.............. and a generator is a little different to a skyline engine. if you feck the gen up nobody cares, i break his skyline he will cry!

anyone ever had it done by a mech?

to be honest even if i could borrow the tools i wouldn't feel confident.... we used to fill the hole with a rag forced into the top of the cylinder with the piston at tdc, once it was tapped we would vacuum out, remove the rag, vacuum again, then use a tiny fiber optic camera with a light to look for the fillings. it used to work. anyone confident enough to do this around the peninsula?

If you grease up the tap it should hold most of the chips in the flute, I'm guessing the thread only needs a cleanup anyway, as if the plug were fully cross threaded it would need to be removed and helicoiled.

A vacuum cleaner with a length of hose attached sounds like the go for cleaning out the bore, and those snake cameras are only $100 these days.

I doubt that is the cause of the missfire though...

Ok, heres the best & EASIEST way to do it WITHOUT getting anything in the cylinder. I work in heavy engineering, & am an engineer. Showed an apprentice this trick yesterday after he f**ked an oil gallery plug hole on an installed crankshaft. (7,042 c.i. V12). Compressed air is required.

1. Bar engine over till intake valves for cylinder are open, exhaust valves closed.

2. Find a suitable vaccuum port on inlet manifold, try to clamp other hoses/passages temporaily.

3. Rig up an air line attachment to the port with an inline valve to regulate supplied air to the cylinder.

4. Remove spark plug.

5. Slowly open valve. You should be able to feel air blowing out of the spark plug hole.

6. Run tap DRY into hole & slowly re-tap thread. All filings will be carried out with the air, so watch your eyes!

might take alittle bit depending on how bad the thread is. Using this method has worked EVERYTIME WITHOUT FAIL!!!!!!!!!

it doesn't seem to bad. its at a very slight angle, towards the front of the engine, i say i think its misfiring but not actually sure car drives perfectly, but we changed the knackered coil packs, and the one on that spark plug was cracked, and it seemed like it was because of the angle it was attached.its not a major issue, but its just gonna cost a fair bit if it keeps cracking coils.

cheers for all the input fellas, we just really dont have the tools or equipment to do it ourselves. rather pay out 100 bucks or so rather than having to forkout for a new head/gasket/ancillarys etc.

Ok, heres the best & EASIEST way to do it WITHOUT getting anything in the cylinder. I work in heavy engineering, & am an engineer. Showed an apprentice this trick yesterday after he f**ked an oil gallery plug hole on an installed crankshaft. (7,042 c.i. V12). Compressed air is required.

1. Bar engine over till intake valves for cylinder are open, exhaust valves closed.

2. Find a suitable vaccuum port on inlet manifold, try to clamp other hoses/passages temporaily.

3. Rig up an air line attachment to the port with an inline valve to regulate supplied air to the cylinder.

4. Remove spark plug.

5. Slowly open valve. You should be able to feel air blowing out of the spark plug hole.

6. Run tap DRY into hole & slowly re-tap thread. All filings will be carried out with the air, so watch your eyes!

might take alittle bit depending on how bad the thread is. Using this method has worked EVERYTIME WITHOUT FAIL!!!!!!!!!

shame your in sydney boss, otherwise we would be round with some beer for ya in exchange!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...