Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me out, I have installed bigger injectors over my stock injectors because most of them were leaking in some form or another into my 93 r32 Gtr, this part was fairly easy.

I have installed a nistune ecu into my car as well and intended on just using the 'resize injectors' operation, I did this and initially left all 3 adjust options ticked and then simply uploaded and burned to the eprom.

The car then wouldnt start firing. I have only just began using nistune and the software and I was wondering if have done something wrong, if I am only changing the injector size do I tick those 'adjust' options or untick them?

I did restore the ecu to the default rom that comes with nistune and it started firing, so my adjustment be wrong with the resizing operation.

Anyone know how to fix this or the procedure to resize injectors for a r32 gtr?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407081-bnr32-nistune-bigger-injectors-help/
Share on other sites

Here try this, may help. NIStune_Mapping_Guide.pdf

Depends on what size the injectors are as the engine may still run (albeit badly) if the difference in size of your new ones aren't that much bigger than your stock 444s

Did you also remember to adjust the latency? It makes a big difference at idle.

This is the note from my DIY

"- If using Nistune; turn the ignition on, load the config from the ECU, save a copy of the config to disk. Select 'Operations -> Resize Injectors'. Enter the original injector size and the new injector size. If the current injectors are OEM you can pull the size in with the 'Factory CC' button. If the new injectors have a different latency to the old ones, use 'Injector Latency -> Change Constant' to make the correction. Apply the new config to the ECU and save the new config to disk using a different filename."

I think it has been said by afew people they have got ID1000's to idle nicely with Nistune, maybe ID2000's also but I'm not 100% sure on that. As for AFMs, Nistune has a bunch of them preset which can be selected from a dropdown box, would need the software to know exactly which are preset, otherwise I think you can program an unknown one in knowing the voltage corrections.

Thanks for all the information, the mapping guide helped a bit but MrStabby pointed out the main problem, I didnt realise the new injectors had a latency of 850us, cant believe 80us makes such a difference, it now runs very well again and yay no more leaking injectors, hopefully now ill get decent fuel economy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...