Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tend to leave from Northcote at 5:45am, though I don't stop on the way. Note I don't go through Cranbourne either - I head towards Pakenham on the Freeway and cut down Koo Wee Rup Road.

Went down to Chasers to have the engine checked out, don't know if the other garage's instrument read low last time but compression was again even but up at around 160 per cylinder, leak down test was also very good. Looks like I can continue to target my money at the rear suspension and possibly Paul Ruzic EM Pro to provide engine monitoring to keep it so - currently just have standard dash.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good news on the comp test, just keep it cool and fill it with fresh oil frequently and bobs your uncle!

i'd love to throw some money at the rear end in my car, it's a constant struggle trying to keep it straight.

have fun at the island!

putting 300kw through my stock rear end was a nightmare at Sandown I just couldnt get on it anywhere but the straights, even then it was point and shoot but dont pull the trigger to hard

...wasnt too bad at PI though, just drove like a normal car but faster,only on the tight tight handers it wanted to step out :D

1.5Way KAAZ or NISMO diff is a must. it's $1500 worth of kit, but money well spent.

This is what Birds was telling me.

How much of a difference did you notice? Just traction out of corners or....?

Yeah diff and brakes is the last big spend I have really..It will have to wait though so in the meantime I will just cruise around and learn the road..

And swaybars..mind of I ask what sizes you run John or is it secret squirrel business..

Adjustable Whiteline Front, there is only one size 24mm.

Fixed Whitline Rear, 20mm.

The diff changes the way the car behaves, not only under power but off power into corners. It's less sloppy and more direct, the change on the road is equally as good. Rob in the black 33 just changed from the stock diff to a KAAZ 1.5 way recently.

GTR is different. The GTR rear subframe is different so is the front (obvious reasons there, front diff)

27mm for the front of the ECR33 is fixed mate. That would be terrible, unless you like massive understeer all the time.

My entry was confirmed by email yesterday too, as scrutiny opens at 7:30 I guess we would need to be there around that time, especially with up to 140 entrants.

I will be meeting other drivers at McDonalds Cranbourne at 6am if you want to get a quick bite and head down with us.

cool, i'll try to make it by then however i'll probably be running late and miss you guys.

What a gorgeous day, looking forward to tomorrow. Where are you planning to park up, if early, close to cafe or at far end of garages near the garage used as the entrance to pit lane?

^^ Was pushed up beside the scrutineering shed, didn't look good.

Pretty happy with my new PB of 1:56, not bad for a 2 ton car I thought. lol.

My gearbox let me down again, perhaps time for a manual conversion?

post-63525-0-05824600-1346638290_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...