Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

want...might have to ebay a kidney.

Actually, i saw that on ebay last year or earlier this year, so id say its been for sale for a while. A bit like that n1 shell that pops up for sale every so often.

Yes been for sale for over a year, they dont seem to want to drop the price so may sit around for some time to come... Maybe Terry will snap it up if they drop the price for a track car :)

These old bones of mine aren't getting any younger > so "sitting" and "waiting" are dirty words around this house.

L'il Enzo doesn't have any spare stem cells does he? hehe...

I've been thinking of fatz' (er Jenna's) car actually; so you read my mind Brian.

  • 3 weeks later...

$148,250 is justification to insure your own R34 GTR for a similar amount when it comes time to renewing your policy.

Sure, but the level of modification and history of the car obviously varies, and with that the value.

Depends on what kind of premium you want to pay- I never really understood the need to get the most insured value you can, because it just increases your premium. I understand being under insured insured is not good, however to pay more to the insurance company (for something that realistically to them carries very little risk) seems odd.

The point has been missed.

The Sum Insured can go quite high without the premium going up proportionately.

The insurance company actuary can look at premiums going up from his angle but...

when the amount of cover (sum insured) goes up at a much higher rate than the premium, it's worth it.

It's worth it even to a person who doesn't even nominate this type of car as his business car.

But it's worth it even more, when it is...

I've just changed my insurer (to Dawes); but even in the past year, with Lumleys-SV, my Sum Insured was $106,000 and the Premium including ancillary costs was less than $1,100. Now at this time, I'm prepared to pay a bit more than that for a rare car that's worth a whole lot more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...