Jump to content
SAU Community

Ev's - R32 Gtr - Targa/sprint/hill Climb Build


Recommended Posts

Yeah I had my eye on the car for a while, with so many cars on the market it was hard to decide which one to buy. Now I have it I think it was a reasonable choice. The old owner gave me a spare engine block so I gave this to Racepace which I will get them to build to their spec.

Hi All,

I have been thinking about the cage and seats and belts and how I may be able to get the car on the road for ease of getting it to the track.....

This is probably old news to those in the know......but I have done a little research for Victoria and roll cages and registration in Victoria and found the following useful link:

If I read it right, a VASS can sign off on the cage as conforming as long as you can check all the boxes listed. It seems seats and seat belts can be replaced with the racing items as long as they meet the checklist requirements such as the tubes they are secured to being strong enough to support the loads they may see in an accident...

First link - look at section 9.5, it has a paragraph referring to rollcages. It then refers you to the VASS checklist for modifications.

http://www.vicroads....torvehicles.pdf

Page 51 refers to roll cages and is the VASS checklist.

http://www.infrastru...1Jan2011_v2.pdf

SO, that said I wonder if when this build is finished if a trip to my local VASS Engineer will see the car able to be registered again?? Has anyone tried this before????

TL;DR version.

You need to think all the other modification going on is not just related to the cage. Just get a rally rego/permit like everyone else. Full rego = not going to happen. If it does, you'll only end up seeing greif from Police who don't know better anyway. And then there is the EPA - exhaust noise over 90dB and all that other shit means you are f**ked before you start, even a Racepace 4" exhaust doesn't come under and it took a LOT of arse ache for us to get my 3.5" passed (back when Ben ran the shop, not Chris).

TL version:

You should be talking to a VASS signatory first, they always look at it in better light rather than you doing it as an after thought. :)

Anyway VSI8 is very vague and has never been detailed in purpose and tells you to look at VSB14 and the LK8-10 codes. And the problem with VSB 14?

Is the sections in bold:

Users of VSB 14 need to be aware that this document needs to be used in conjunction with the appropriate administrative requirements of the jurisdiction in which they wish to either register a vehicle or to obtain approval for a modification for an already registered vehicle. Administrative requirements include, amongst other things, processes for vehicle registration, obtaining exemptions, obtaining modification approvals, vehicle inspections, preparation and submission of reports and the payment of appropriate fees and charges. If unsure of any of the requirements specified in VSB 14, or if more information is needed for any other issues concerning the administrative requirements, users should contact their relevant Registration Authority prior to commencing any work.

Basically VicRoads and the DIT point fingers at each other :)

VicRoads most certainly do have their own rules surrounding cages. I cannot think for the life of me what document it is in, I do remember having read it (along with a kunt load of other stuff over the years). However I know there were some changes about 18 months ago so perhaps with that the document has been pulled.

Call up VicRoads. They have dedicated engineers that you can speak to and they will then be able to go into further detail, I've done it before. But as i said earlier the EPA stuff is what is going to bring you unstuck here on every corner. Full Emission testing will be required, and forget that, more cost than it's worth for the sake of over priced registration.

If you still think you want to go through with it after talking to a VicRoads engineer - For a VASS i would highly reccommend Enkelman in Braeside. I've used them before as have other mates for some fairly modified cars. We knew the rules prior so modified accordingly and passed our inspections very easily. However none involved cages, but they are upfront guys and the better priced VASS signatories in Vic (some places will charge you really heavily for no valid reason).

Also totally unrelated.

What are you doing for suspension?

Going Racepace Tiens or all out with MCA?

Thanks for the detailed reply on the cage/rego. I think I will take your advice and stick with rally rego and then club permit in 2014. It makes sense now I think about the total picture.

The car currently has bilstein shocks on it (adjust comp and rebound & height). Chris said they were ok for now. I would probably go with the Teins for the next upgrade but am open to suggestion. whats the difference with MCA versus the RPM Tiens? I need to purchase and fit some adjustable arms for the front etc. It has adjustable camber arms on the rear already.

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...